Ancient Grains

by Linda Tyler

What is an ancient grain? Just like "superfood," the phrase "ancient grain" is more a marketing term than a scientific category. The closest I've found as an accepted definition is from the Whole Grains Council, which states that grains that are largely unchanged over the last several hundred years can be called "ancient."

This means that modern wheat, which is constantly hybridized by growers, is not an ancient grain, while other types of wheat, including einkorn, emmer, farro, Khorasan wheat, and spelt, would be considered ancient grains. Most lists of ancient grains encompass amaranth, barley, bulgur, freekeh, millet, teff, and quinoa. To add even more nuance—or confusion—to the definition of "ancient grains," amaranth, buckwheat, and quinoa are actually pseudo-grains; they are seeds from broadleaf plants, not from grasses.

Some ancient grains are currently used more often as flour than as intact grains. Spelt, a type of wheat that has been cultivated since at least the Bronze Age in parts of Europe, is the preferred whole wheat flour of many bakers because it performs the closest to all-purpose white flour in baked goods. It's still delicious as a whole cooked grain, but it has more competition when it comes to cooked grains used in bowls, pilafs, and salads. The tiny grain teff is also often used as a flour, appreciated by gluten-free bakers especially.

Most ancient grains are not refined like white flour and white rice. This means they are higher in fiber, vitamins, and minerals compared to refined grains. However, some ancient grains are used in crackers and other processed foods that are predominantly made from refined ingredients; it's important to read labels.

Cooked ancient grains are fantastic in bowls, salads, soups, side dishes, pilafs, and hot cereal-it's easy to substitute them for rice in many dishes. Cooked grains can also be included in veggie burgers, yeast breads, quick breads, and smoothies. Two ancient grains—amaranth and sorghum—can be puffed or popped like popcorn, although amaranth's tiny kernels don't yield a large volume.

Cooking and tasting notes on ancient grains

  • Many larger ancient grains (including farro, sorghum, spelt, and other whole wheat grains) have a chewy texture that can surprise people when first encountered. I find this chewiness very pleasant, but it may take some time to get used to.
  • Water absorption can vary for many of these grains depending on age and moisture level. It's perfectly fine if there is water left over when the grain is fully cooked. Just drain off the excess water.
  • While whole grains like brown rice and quinoa often yield 3 or 4 times the volume of uncooked grains to cooked grains, many ancient grains result in a smaller yield, because the grains are denser when cooked.

Granola with Ancient Grains
(Makes 7 cups)

2 cups uncooked old-fashioned oats
1 cup roughly chopped nuts (almonds, cashews, and pecans—all one kind or a combination)
2/3 cup small uncooked grains (amaranth, millet, quinoa, and teff-all one kind or a combination)
1/4 cup raw seeds (hemp, pumpkin, sesame, and sunflower-all one kind or a combination)
1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
1 1/2 Tablespoons chia seeds
1 1/2 Tablespoons flaxseed meal
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ginger powder
1/8 teaspoon salt (optional)
1/2 cup date syrup or 2/3 cup maple syrup
2 Tablespoons almond, cashew, or peanut butter
1 Tablespoon water
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or vanilla powder
2/3 cup mixed dried fruit and/or cocoa nibs

Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Line two baking pans with parchment paper or silicone mats.

In a large bowl, stir together the dry ingredients (oats through optional salt). Next, in a small bowl or measuring cup, whisk together the wet ingredients (date syrup through vanilla extract).

Pour the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Stir until well combined, then divide the mixture between the two pans in thin, even layers.

Bake the granola for 25-35 minutes, stirring after about 20 minutes, and then checking regularly after that. (Note: If you use maple syrup rather than date syrup, baking time may increase by 5-10 minutes.) The granola should be dry and darker, and the nuts should be nicely roasted. The granola will crisp up as it cools. Allow the granola to sit on the pans and cool completely. Then stir in dried fruit or cocoa nibs.

Store the granola in airtight containers. It stays fresh for 2-3 weeks at room temperature.

Note: Nutrition information will vary depending on the type of grains, seeds, nut butter, and sweetener used.

Total calories per 1/2-cup serving: 229 Fat: 11 grams
Carbohydrates: 30 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 17 milligrams Fiber: 6 grams

Carrot Cake Hot Cereal with Ancient Grains
(Serves 4)

4 cups water
1 cup uncooked ancient grains (amaranth, millet, quinoa, steel-cut oats, and/or teff)
1 cup grated carrots (1 large or 2 medium carrots)
1/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
2 Tablespoons flaxseed meal
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon salt (or to taste)
2/3 cup black or golden raisins
1/3 cup chopped pecans or walnuts
1 teaspoon vanilla extract or vanilla powder
Vegan milk for topping
Maple syrup or date syrup for topping
Dried fruit and nuts for topping

Pressure Cooker Instructions
Add the first 9 ingredients (water through optional salt) to an Instant Pot. Lock the lid. Move the knob to "Sealing." Use the "Manual," "Pressure Cook," or "High" mode and set for 5 minutes. Wait 10 minutes after it's done cooking, then move the knob to "Venting" and release the remaining steam before opening the lid.

Stove Top Instructions
On the night before or at least 2 1/2 hours before serving, bring the water to a boil in a large saucepan. Turn off the heat. Add the 8 ingredients after water (the grains through the salt) and stir. Cover the pan and let it stand 2 hours or overnight.

After 2 hours or in the morning, bring the mixture to a boil, reduce to low, and simmer until grains are tender, 10-15 minutes. Add more water if needed.

To Serve
Immediately add the raisins, nuts, and vanilla and stir. The cereal is ready to serve. Top with any or all of the suggested toppings.

The cooked cereal will last in the refrigerator for about a week. It can also be frozen.

Note: Nutrition information will vary depending on the type of grains used.

Total calories per serving (without toppings): 373 Fat: 14 grams
Carbohydrates: 59 grams Protein: 7 grams
Sodium: 175 milligrams Fiber: 9 grams

Black Bean and Sorghum Chili
(Serves 6)

3-4 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
1 cup dried, unsoaked black beans or two 15.5-ounce cans black beans
3/4 cup uncooked whole grain sorghum
1 medium onion, diced (1 1/2 cups)
1 bell pepper (any color), seeded, diced
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
One 14.5-ounce can no-salt-added diced tomatoes
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
1 1/2 Tablespoons chili powder
2 teaspoons tahini
1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin
1 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
Freshly ground black pepper
Extra spices: cayenne pepper, chipotle chili powder, chopped chipotles with some adobo sauce from a can, or a fresh jalapeño, seeded and diced
1/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
1 Tablespoon fresh lime juice
2 teaspoons reduced sodium soy sauce or Bragg Liquid Aminos
1 teaspoon maple syrup
Optional toppings: avocado, cilantro, red or green onions, vegan sour cream or crema (recipes for sour cream and crema at graciousvegan.com)

Pressure Cooker Instructions
Add the broth, beans, and sorghum to a pressure cooker. Lock the lid. Move the knob to "Sealing." Use the "Manual," "Pressure Cook," or "High" mode and set for 23 minutes. When the pressure cooking is done, immediately move the knob to "Venting" and release the remaining steam before opening the lid.

After opening the lid, add the next 14 ingredients (onion through "Extra spices"). Reseal the lid, move the knob to "Sealing;" use the "Manual," "Pressure Cook," or "High" mode; and set for 8 minutes. When the pressure cooking is done, immediately move the knob to "Venting" to release the steam before opening the lid.

Stir cilantro, lime juice, soy sauce, and maple syrup into the chili and then taste for spices.

Stove Top Instructions
Use two 15.5-ounce cans black beans (drained and rinsed) and 3 cups of vegetable broth. Start by cooking the sorghum, following package directions until tender, then drain off any excess water. In a Dutch oven or large soup pan, combine the sorghum, beans, vegetable broth, and the next 14 ingredients (through "Extra spices"). Bring the mixture to a boil and then turn down the heat, cover the pot with the lid ajar, and simmer for about an hour, stirring every 10 minutes or so and adding water if the chili gets dry.

Stir cilantro, lime juice, soy sauce, and maple syrup into the chili and then taste for spices.

To Serve
The chili is ready to serve right away, although the flavors improve significantly after sitting for a few hours. Serve chili with one or more of the optional toppings. The chili will last 1 week in the fridge.

Total calories per serving: 254 Fat: 2 grams
Carbohydrates: 49 grams Protein: 11 grams
Sodium: 164 milligrams Fiber: 11 grams

Greek Farro Salad
(Serves 6)

1 1/2-2 1/2 cups water or vegetable broth
1 cup uncooked pearled farro

Dressing
3 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 Tablespoons tahini
2 Tablespoons water
2 teaspoons dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

3 large kale leaves or about 3 ounces baby kale, chopped and massaged (yielding about 3 cups)
1 cup halved grape or cherry tomatoes
1/2 cup (or more) halved or chopped Kalamata olives
1/2 cup chopped or thinly sliced red onion

Pressure Cooker Instructions
Add 1 1/2 cups water and farro to a pressure cooker. Lock the lid; turn the knob to "Sealing;" use the "High," "Pressure Cook," "Multigrain," or "Manual" mode; and set for 8 minutes. Wait for 10 minutes after the pressure cooking is done, then move the knob to "Venting" and release the remaining steam before opening the lid. Drain off any excess water.

Stove Top Instructions
Bring 2 1/2 cups water to a boil in a saucepan, stir in farro and bring the mixture back to a boil. Then reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer gently until the grains are tender, 15-20 minutes. When the grains reach the desired texture, remove the pot from the stove and drain any excess water.

To Serve
Make the dressing by whisking together the lemon juice, tahini, water, oregano, salt, and black pepper with a fork or in a small blender.

Once the farro has cooled to warm, transfer it into a large bowl. Add kale, tomatoes, olives, and onions, and stir gently.

Toss the salad with half the dressing, taste, and adjust seasonings and/or add more dressing.

The salad is ready to serve at room temperature or chilled. The salad will last 4-5 days in the refrigerator. It does not freeze well.

Total calories per serving: 189 Fat: 5 grams
Carbohydrates: 31 grams Protein: 6 grams
Sodium: 280 milligrams Fiber: 6 grams

Shawarma Spelt, Chickpea, and Cauliflower Bowls
(Serves 6)

2 1/4-4 1/2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
1 1/2 cups uncooked spelt
1/4 teaspoon salt (optional)
3 Tablespoons water
2 Tablespoons tahini
1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 1/2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
3/4 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste
One 15.5-ounce can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1 medium head cauliflower, cut into florets
1 cup prepared hummus
3 Tablespoons water
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons dried or 1 1/2 Tablespoons fresh dill
Optional toppings: diced tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, parsley, and/or cooked vegetables Dukkah or za'atar (recipes at graciousvegan.com)

Pressure Cooker Instructions
Add 2 1/2 cups broth, spelt, and salt to a pressure cooker. Lock the lid; turn the knob to "Sealing;" use the "High," "Pressure Cook," "Multigrain," or "Manual" mode, and set for 25 minutes. Wait for 10 minutes after it is done, move the knob to "Venting;" and release the steam before opening the lid. Drain off any excess water.

Stove Top Instructions
Bring 4 1/2 cups broth to a boil in a saucepan, stir in spelt and optional salt, and bring the mixture back to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer gently until the grains are tender, 65-80 minutes. When the grains reach the desired texture, remove the pot from the stove and drain any excess water.

To Serve
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper. In a large bowl, whisk the water, tahini, cumin, garlic powder, paprika, coriander, salt, allspice, and red pepper flakes together. Add the chickpeas and cauliflower, using a spatula to stir and entirely coat everything. Divide the chickpeas and cauliflower between the two pans and roast them for 15 minutes. Then stir and return to the oven for 5-8 minutes, or until the cauliflower is tender with brown edges.

Stir together the hummus, water, garlic, and dill in a bowl or blend in a small blender.

Assemble bowls using the spelt, chickpeas, cauliflower, sauce, and optional toppings and spices.

The individual elements for the bowls will last about a week in the fridge. Cooked spelt freezes well.

Total calories per serving: 381 Fat: 9 grams
Carbohydrates: 56 grams Protein: 16 grams
Sodium: 487 milligrams Fiber: 11 grams

Walnut Cookies with Toasted Quinoa
(Makes about 24 cookies)

1/3 cup uncooked red or white quinoa
2 cups walnut pieces
1/2 cup oat flour
1/3 cup maple syrup
1/4 cup cacao nibs, raisins, dried cranberries, dried cherries, or other dried fruit
3 Tablespoons flaxseed meal
2 Tablespoons chia seeds
2 teaspoons vanilla extract or vanilla powder
1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line two sheet pans or cookie sheets with parchment paper or silicone mats.

On the stove top, scatter the quinoa in a wide skillet and turn the heat to medium or medium/low. Stir or shake the quinoa frequently until it begins to pop, turn darker, and smell like popcorn, 5-7 minutes. As soon as it has been popping for about a minute, pour it into a medium bowl and let cool for 5-10 minutes.

Grind the walnuts in a food processor or use a hand-held grinder. Make sure there are still plenty of small chunks of walnuts. Add the walnuts and the remaining ingredients to the quinoa and stir well.

Use a 1 1/2-Tablespoon cookie scoop or a spoon to drop mounds of dough onto the cookie sheets. Flatten the cookies with your hand, a fork, or the bottom of a glass (moistened if needed to prevent sticking). Bake for 10-14 minutes or until just golden brown.

Let the cookies cool on the pans. They are ready to eat as soon as you can handle them, or they can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for several days.

Total calories per cookie: 114 Fat: 8 grams
Carbohydrates: 9 grams Protein: 5 grams
Sodium: 27 milligrams Fiber: 1 gram

Linda Tyler is the author of The Plant-Based Anti-Inflammatory Cookbook. She teaches cooking classes in Washington for Portland and Mt. Hood Community Colleges and offers one-on-one plant-based lifestyle coaching. She is on the video review team for Nutritionfacts.org Her website is graciousvegan.com