By Amanda Kerr

Nestled in-between the cornucopia of dive bars, multicultural takeout places and food marts of Allston, MA sits a vegan’s treasure trove: Root. The café has earned its stripes since its establishment in 2013, with accolades as one of Boston’s best vegan/vegetarian restaurants from The Improper Bostonian, Trip Advisor, Yelp, and the like. Yet in the face of increased praise, Root somehow retains and translates its modesty into down-to-earth food and service.

The scene is casual. A small counter divides the open kitchen from a quaint dining space with a handful of copper tables and bench seating. Recycled bicycle wheels and paintings of farmscapes adorn its two walls. A sign reminds readers that everything they are handed is either reusable or compostable. Patrons are greeted warmly by young staff that happily help navigate the extensive list of plant-based “bites.” The array of “big bites” ranges from BBQ Portobello, eggplant Caprese, and crispy cauliflower Po Boy sandwiches, to the famous Root burger, a macro quinoa bowl, and other wraps and salads. “Small bites” offers sweet corn and jalapeno hush puppies, sweet potato and kale quesadillas, and Root’s signature herbed French fries with house ketchup. A second chalkboard shows the lineup of house-made lemonades and made-to-order juices, all served in mason jars.

The sweet potato tostadas claim and exceed their spot on the list of big bites. The heap of roasted and spiced sweet potatoes, corn, black beans, red onion, and bell peppers sings on two crispy corn tortillas and a bed of fresh arugula. A cashew crema and sliced avocado nicely tame the spice, while a mango habanero sauce sits on the side for the daring. Paired with the refreshing house grapefruit and mint “mojito,” the dish conjures images of Mexico in the summer, and one almost forgets her college-town, New England bearings.

Root skillfully elevates vegetables and grains in the most unassuming and homey ways. Perhaps it’s the deep fryer. Perhaps it’s the passion that permeates the entire restaurant. Either way, it works, and leaves the most important impression upon its guests: that its door is always open.

For information on Root, see: https://twitter.com/rootboston

For information about other vegetarian restaurants in the United States and Canada, see: http://www.vrg.org/restaurant/index.php