Vegetarian Journal
Excerpts
May/June 1997Volume XVI, Number 3
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Vegetarian JournalExcerptsMay/June 1997Volume XVI, Number 3
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It's said that one cannot judge a book by its cover; the same might be said for a wonderful gift. Hidden under a plain brown wrapper may be the answer to all your dreams. A burrito may not offer the secret to world peace, but it can certainly quell some major rumblings at meal time.
A burrito is a savory roll-up consisting of a tortilla and filling. Burritos can be sweet or spicy; eaten hot or cold as a main course, dessert, or snack; or served at breakfast, lunch, or dinner.
Every culture has its version of the burrito_that is, a flat bread rolled around an interesting filling. Cooks everywhere cannot seem to resist using edible wrappers to surround flavorful stuffings; think blintzes, crepes, spring rolls, socca, and calzone. Not satisfied being restricted to only bread, we have expanded to the plant world and use leaves too: think of stuffed cabbage, grape leaves, and romaine.
But, the burrito reigns supreme in acceptance across many cuisines and among all age groups_no utensils are necessary to enjoy it, and even plates are optional.
Before considering the filling, one must address the exterior of the burrito, namely, the tortilla. Tortilla means "little cake" in Spanish and at one time was the major bread eaten in the New World. You can buy tortillas ready-made, fresh, or frozen. Be sure to label-read, as most flour tortillas are prepared with fat as an ingredient_many tortilla-producers are replacing the traditional lard with plant oils. Corn tortillas are not usually made with any fat and so most are a safe bet. Tortillas do not have a long shelf life (they generally are made without preservatives); so if purchasing more than you can eat in one or two days, refrigerate or freeze until ready to use. To bring tortillas to life, wrap a stack in foil and heat in a 325 degree oven for approximately 7 minutes, or wrap in a dampened paper towel and microwave. To heat authentically, place a tortilla on the open flame of your gas stove-top burner or barbecue, turning frequently to avoid burning (watch your fingers!). Frozen tortillas should be thawed in the refrigerator before reheating. Refrigerated tortillas can be heated right from the fridge. An interesting tortilla product seen in some markets is a ready-to-cook tortilla_it's been mixed and formed, and you have only to heat it to the doneness you desire. But once again, label-read for the type of fat used. For variety, buy whole wheat tortillas or even spring-roll wrappers; some ethnic markets may have tortillas colored with vegetable dyes for festive occasions.
If you have the time, freshly-made tortillas are moister and generally more flavorful than market-bought tortillas. You don't need any special equipment, but you do need time, patience, and if possible, a tortilla coach.
The best tortillas are made of hominy that has been freshly boiled, drained, and then finely ground. These wet-hominy tortillas you make are much closer to the true Central American type than store-bought, which are made with dehydrated hominy. As you are grappling with the fresh dough (it can be sticky), remember that these tortillas will not dry out as quickly as store-boug ht and will keep very well in the freezer or the refrigerator.
To begin, drain 2 cups of cooked hominy (canned is fine) and grind as finely as possible in a food processor or food mill; add salt if you like, to your taste. Shape hominy dough into 1- or 2-inch diameter balls and cover with wax paper to keep moist while you are working with them (an inverted bowl works, too). Place one ball on a square of plastic wrap and cover with another square of plastic. Press flat with your hand or the bottom of a pan to about 1/2-inch thickness. Peel off the plastic, put onto a hot skillet or grill and cook for two minutes on each side, or until each side is golden. The tortilla will stiffen and become flecked with brown. This will give you about 12 tortillas, which you may then stuff for burritos or refrigerate for later use.
The filling for burritos can be as ornate or as easy as you like. Have some leftover mashed potatoes, veggie burgers (either homemade or commercially prepared) or mashed beans? Simply season them with garlic, onions, and chili and use as a filling; the same can be done if you are baking and have a bit of apple or peach pie filling left over. Season with additional cinnamon and nutmeg and use as a dessert burrito filling. The recipes at the end of this article will give you some more ideas.
Many burrito fillings are bean-based, which is excellent from a health and cost standpoint. In addition to being very economical, beans are a "near-perfect" food, high in carbohydrate, protein, fiber, thiamin, niacin, riboflavin, folic acid, iron, calcium, potassium, phosphorus, and zinc. Beans are low in sodium and fat (of course, canned beans will be higher in sodium which is added as a preservative) and are digested slowly, giving a feeling of fullness for a long time.
Canned versus "from-scratch" beans are your choice. Some people feel when they cook their own beans, they can control the texture and the flavor (and obviously the salt content). However, one must have the time to cook them. Canned beans are the short time alternative. Soaking or not soaking beans seems to be a controversial issue among bean cooks. Beans may be soaked overnight, "quick-soaked" by boiling for two or three minutes and then soaking for an hour before final cooking, or not presoaked at all (which will add about 30 more minutes of cooking time). If using canned beans, no cooking is necessary before combining for a burrito filling, but they should be drained and rinsed well to get rid of excess salt and "slime."
When figuring out how much to cook, use this bean-guide: one pound of dried beans is equal to 2 cups of dried beans; one cup of dried beans will make 2 to 3 cups of cooked beans, and one 16-ounce can of cooked beans will drain to 13/4 cups of cooked beans.
A burrito is a self-contained meal, but you may want to serve some accompaniments to color up the plate and avoid palate-blindness. Tomato salsas are traditional burrito partners; they can be purchased refrigerated or canned and then spruced up with your own fresh ingredients such as lime juice, chopped bell peppers, fresh cilantro, cut corn, diced mango or papaya, or chopped onion. Fresh or grilled fruit salsas can be made in season, with chopped fruit (try peaches, apricots, or plums), chopped onions, cilantro, and chili, as can fresh chutneys. Hot vegetable sauces for dipping add color and flavor, as do spicy steamed vegetables or grains. (Try a barley pilaf or an amaranth risotto, seasoned with chili, tomatoes, and lemon.) Spicy burritos can be served cold with salsa for a take-along lunch. Savory burritos with a crisp salad and a hot sauce can be a sit-down lunch or dinner entree. Sweet burritos (stuffed with fruit and sweetened rice or other grains) can be a dessert or snack. Leftover burritos can be frozen or refrigerated for midnight raiding parties. So keep the plates in the pantry and roll out the burritos!
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