The Stone Fruits
By Debra Daniels-Zeller
In late May when the parade of summer fruits begins, I'm at my favorite farmers' market, bags in hand, searching out the first ripe, juicy, organic apricots. And though the apricot season is always much too short, soon come cherries, peaches, nectarines, and plums — the fabulous stone fruits of summer.
Stone or drupe fruits are classified together because of their single, hard, bony seeds inside the soft fleshy fruit. Cherries are possibly the oldest of these fruits; traces of them have been found in Stone Age archaeological sites in Europe and America. Plums originated in Western Asia, and over 3,000 years ago they were enjoyed in the Middle East. Apricots and peaches originated in China, and by AD 50, apricots were fetching high prices in Italy. Considered gourmet fruits, they were more readily available to wealthy people. Nectarines, thought by some to be a mutation of peaches, have been recognized as a distinct species for over 2,000 years.
Apricots were harvested wild in China for nearly 5,000 years before cultivation began, and thanks to the Greek philosophers who made a breakthrough with grafting, the Etruscans, Romans, and Gauls had enormous orchards. Apricot nectar was called the drink of the Roman and Greek gods. You don't wonder why that was when you savor a ripe, juicy, organic apricot. Unfortunately, as with other stone fruits, commercially harvested apricots are picked before they are ripe. To savor maximum flavor and sweetness, seek out tree-ripened fruit. The hard commercial fruit found at your local grocery store will soften with time, but it will never sweeten. Apricots are a rich source of vitamin A. They also contain vitamin C and fiber.
Wild cherries, called bird cherries, were enjoyed by prehistoric Swiss lake-dwellers, but the cultivation of cherries began in the Mesopotamian orchards. Today there are two main types of cherries — sweet and sour. The sweet cherries are more widely available. Lambert, Royal Anne, and Rainier are a few of the popular kinds. Royal Annes are usually dyed and used as maraschino cherries. Sour cherries (juicy, delicate, and perishable) are usually found canned as pie cherries in a thick, sweet syrup. These are the cherries called for in pie recipes. Search out both kinds at farmers' markets and use them within a few days of purchase.
The name nectarine is believed to be derived from nectar, the drink of the gods, because of its superb sweet, rich flavor. As with other stone fruits, the best tasting nectarines are found at farmers' markets during their peak season, which is late summer through September. They are a good source of vitamin A and fiber.
Fleshy and juicy-sweet with a hint of tartness, peaches are classified into two main types — freestone and clingstone. This means the fruit either breaks free of the pit or adheres to it. Most commercial fresh peaches are freestones; the clingstones are usually processed and never make it to market. Peaches are available early in the summer until fall. Commercially grown peaches often contain high levels of pesticide residues, especially when consumed out of season when the fruit has been imported from long distances.
Wild plums, also consumed by prehistoric Swiss lake-dwellers, are now cultivated on every continent except Antarctica. Of the thousand or so varieties in existence, about 20 are grown commercially. These are classified as either European or Japanese plums. The European varieties are smaller and have a blue to purplish skin. The Japanese plums are a bit juicier and come in red, yellow, or green colors. At my local farmers' market, I can sometimes find smaller, sweeter, wild plums. These are a real taste treat! Though plums are usually eaten fresh or in preserves, poaching or sautéing brings the sweet-tart flavors together in an indescribably delicious way. Unlike other stone fruits, plums will soften and sweeten a bit if picked before ripening. Plums contain vitamin A and fiber.
Selection, Storage, and Preparation Tips
Buying seasonally, locally, and organically is your best bet with stone fruits. If you like peaches in January, buy extra in July and freeze some. Fresh fruit should give slightly to the touch and give off a faint aroma of the fruit inside. Avoid bruised or damaged fruit. Store at room temperature for a few days, or refrigerate ripe fruit for up to a week. To freeze: first blanch fruit in hot water for about 30 seconds, then plunge into cold water and remove the skins (or leave the skins on for apricots, peaches, and plums). Slice the fruit, remove the pits, and toss fruit with a bit of lemon juice to retain the color. Mix with some fruit sweetener, if desired, and freeze in a single layer on a baking sheet. Remove frozen fruit pieces and place in a freezer bag. Stone fruits are also good dried if you have a dehydrator.
Though stone fruits are excellent raw, common cooking techniques include poaching, baking, roasting, and sautéing. They can also be grilled — an excellent summer treat. To grill: cut fruit into bite-size pieces and place on skewers. Brush with a small amount of canola oil mixed with a little unrefined sugar or maple syrup. Place on a grill about 6 inches above the coals, turning frequently until fruit is lightly browned and tender. Grate nutmeg over cooked fruit, if desired. Stone fruits are also delicious in cold soups, salad entrées, as an addition to a stir-fry, and in quick breads, muffins, puddings, and sorbets. In many recipes, they can be used interchangeably. Below are just samplings of recipes for these delicious summer fruits.
ANISE POACHED PLUMS AND CHERRIES
(Serves 6)
Cooking brings together the sweet-tart flavor of plums, and poaching is one of the easiest ways to cook them. The skin is not removed in order to preserve the tartness just under the skin. Cherries add another delicious dimension of flavor to this recipe. This dish is wonderful for breakfast — to accompany hot cereal or top pancakes — and it's also a great topping for rice or soy-based frozen desserts. If you want a thicker sauce, blend 1 1/2 Tablespoons arrowroot or cornstarch into a few Tablespoons of cold juice and mix into cooked poached fruit. Then heat for a few more minutes before serving.
2-1/2 cups sliced and pitted plums (about 1-1/4 pounds)
3/4 cup pitted sweet cherries (about 1/3 pound)
1 teaspoon anise seeds
1 cup apricot or peach nectar (or use apple juice)
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 8 to 10 minutes or until fruit is tender. Serve warm or chill and serve later.
Hint: The wonderful anise flavor is even better if these plums are chilled and eaten later.
| Total calories per serving: 93 | Fat: 1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 22 grams | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 1 milligram | Fiber: 2 grams |
COUSCOUS SALAD WITH APRICOTS AND ALMONDS
(Serves 8)
A hit at potlucks and picnics, this easy salad uses almonds, which are closely related to both apricots and peaches. You can use nectarines or peaches in this recipe instead of apricots. For peaches, blanch and remove skins before using.
1 cup finely chopped celery
1-3/4 to 2 cups grated carrots (about 1/2 pound)
2 cups pitted, quartered apricots (if apricots are a large variety, cut into bite-size pieces)
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 Tablespoon lime or lemon juice
2 cups whole wheat couscous
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups boiling water
Vinaigrette:
1/4 cup brown rice vinegar
3 Tablespoons fruit sweetener (or use 1 Tablespoon granulated sweetener)
2 Tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 Tablespoon freshly grated ginger (use more if you are a real ginger fan!)
Salt to taste
1/4 cup lightly toasted, slivered almonds
3/4 cup chopped parsley or 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
Combine celery, carrots, apricots, jalapeños, and lime or lemon juice. Set aside. In another bowl combine couscous and salt. Pour boiling water over couscous, cover, and set aside for 5 minutes. Do not let it sit for much longer than 5 minutes or couscous will stick together.
Combine vinaigrette ingredients: vinegar, fruit sweetener, olive oil, and ginger. Pour over celery-apricot mixture. Fluff couscous with a fork. Combine with celery-apricot mixture. Add salt to taste. Just before serving, mix in toasted, slivered almonds, and chopped parsley or cilantro.
| Total calories per serving: 313 | Fat: 7 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 57 grams | Protein: 10 grams |
| Sodium: 190 milligrams | Fiber: 10 grams |
COOL AND SPICY STONE FRUIT SOUP
(Serves 6 to 8)
On sizzling summer days, you don't have to go near a stove for this recipe! This is just the sweet and spicy ticket you need to cool off. Use apricots, nectarines, plums, or peeled peaches in this soup.
2 cups of any one: sliced and pitted plums, peaches, nectarines, or apricots (about 1 to 1-1/2 pounds of fruit)
1 jalapeño, seeded and minced
Juice of 1 lime (and zest if using organic lime)
1 cup silken tofu
4 cups peach or apricot nectar
1 to 1-1/2 cups chopped apricots, peeled and pitted peaches, nectarines, or halved cherries
1/4 cup cilantro for garnish
Baked corn tortillas for serving
Purée the sliced stone fruit and jalapeño in a blender until smooth. Add lime juice and silken tofu and blend until smooth and creamy. Add apricot or peach nectar and purée. Chill for 30 minutes or until ready to serve. Mix in chopped fruit. Pour into serving bowls and garnish with cilantro. Serve with baked corn tortillas.
| Total calories per serving: 156 | Fat: 1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 35 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 8 milligrams | Fiber: 3 grams |
GINGER-PEACH SCONES
(Makes 12 scones)
Cold soy margarine gives these scones a nice crumb. Try using a non-hydrogenated margarine found in the refrigerator case at natural foods stores. Though these scones are a bit smaller than the average bakery scone, they make tasty snacks and are great with a cup of tea in the afternoon. Apricots, nectarines, or cherries also work well in this recipe.
1/2 cup rolled oats (not instant)
2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1 Tablespoon baking powder
1/3 cup unrefined, organic sugar
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup cold soy margarine
1 medium ripe banana, mashed (about 1/2 cup)
5 Tablespoons lowfat vanilla soy or rice milk
1 medium-large peach, peeled, chopped, and pitted (about 3/4 cup)
1/3 cup crystallized ginger, chopped to the size of a raisin
1/4 cup toasted walnuts (optional)
1 Tablespoon cinnamon sugar (made with unrefined, organic sugar)
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
Lightly oil a baking sheet or use a non-stick baking sheet. Place oats in a blender or spice mill and grind until you have oat flour. Combine oat flour, whole wheat pastry flour, baking powder, sugar, ginger, and salt. Mix well, making sure no small lumps remain. With a pastry blender or a fork, blend in cold margarine until mixture resembles fine crumbs.
In a blender or with a hand mixer, combine mashed banana and soy or rice milk. Blend until smooth and creamy. Combine wet and dry ingredients. Gently blend in peach, ginger, and walnuts (if desired). Mixture will be sticky, and not quite a formed dough.
With your hands, work the mixture into a soft dough. Adjust flour or liquid ingredients, if necessary. Turn out onto a lightly floured board. Knead until dough sticks together, about 5 turns. Pat into a 9-inch round shape. Cut in half, then cut each half into 6 wedges. Place wedges about 1 inch apart on a baking sheet. Sprinkle with cinnamon sugar. Bake for 18 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from oven and let cool slightly before removing to a cooling rack. Serve warm.
| Total calories per serving: 185 | Fat: 4 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 36 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 199 milligrams | Fiber: 3 grams |
SPICY PEPPERS AND NECTARINES WITH SEITAN OVER RICE
(Makes 4 servings)
This colorful, spicy dish is made with seitan — a versatile meat substitute made of wheat gluten, available in natural foods stores. You can substitute tempeh for seitan if you like; either sauté or steam tempeh before adding it to other ingredients. You can substitute apricots or peeled peaches for nectarines. Try using different grains, such as millet or quinoa, for variation.
1-3/4 cups water
1 cup brown rice
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon canola or olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
1 red pepper or fresh pimento, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 green pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1-1/2 cups chicken-style seitan, cut into bite-size chunks
1/2 cup apple juice
1 to 2 Tablespoons tamari or soy sauce
1 cup snow peas
1 cup pitted and thinly sliced nectarines
2 Tablespoons sherry vinegar
1/2 Tablespoon arrowroot or cornstarch
Salt to taste
1/4 cup chopped cilantro or parsley
Bring water to a boil. Add rice and salt. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes or until rice has absorbed all water and is tender. Cook a bit longer or add a bit more water, if necessary. When done, remove from heat. Let sit for 5 minutes, then fluff with a fork.
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion and jalapeños. Stir, reduce heat, cover, and sweat onions until soft, about 5 minutes. Remove cover: add red and green peppers. Stir and cook until slightly tender — about 3 minutes. Add seitan, apple juice, and tamari. Cover and cook for about 7 minutes. Remove cover, add snow peas and nectarines. Cook until snow peas and nectarines are tender. Combine sherry vinegar and arrowroot or cornstarch, and stir until arrowroot or cornstarch is dissolved. Pour into mixture, stir, and continue to cook until sauce thickens. Add salt to taste. Serve over rice. Garnish with cilantro or parsley.
| Total calories per serving: 364 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 61 grams | Protein: 20 grams |
| Sodium: 659 milligrams | Fiber: 11 grams |
STRAWBERRY PLUM SAUCE
(Makes 1 cup)
This mouth-watering sauce takes only a few minutes to make and is good served over hot cakes, waffles, or frozen soy- or rice-based desserts. Try using other jams in this recipe, such as blueberry, blackberry, or raspberry to vary the flavor. For a creamy version of this sauce, blend in 1/4 cup silken tofu.
1 cup pitted, ripe plums (about 8 small)
Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
2 Tablespoons fruit-sweetened strawberry jam
Place ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth and creamy. Serve immediately or refrigerate and serve later. This sauce will keep for about one week in the refrigerator.
| Total calories per 2 Tbsp serving: 23 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 6 grams | Protein: <1 grams |
| Sodium: 1 milligram | Fiber: 1 gram |
ALMOND-NECTARINE PUDDING
(Serves 6 to 8)
This irresistible pudding can be made ahead of time. Combine all ingredients except nectarines and store in the refrigerator. Just before serving, add the nectarines. Substitute apricots, peeled peaches, or seeded and halved sweet cherries if you like.
One 19-ounce package silken tofu (2-3/4 cups)
1/3 cup maple syrup
3 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons almond butter
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon almond extract
1/8 teaspoon salt
4 medium or 3 large nectarines, pitted, peeled (blanch as you would peaches) and sliced (about 2 to 2-1/2 cups)
Maple syrup for garnish
Drain tofu. In a food processor or blender, combine tofu, maple syrup, lemon juice, almond butter, vanilla extract, almond extract, and salt. Blend until smooth and creamy. Add 1 cup of the nectarines and purée into the mixture. Pour into serving dishes. Garnish with remaining nectarines. Drizzle with swirls of maple syrup for presentation.
| Total calories per serving: 177 | Fat: 6 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 26 grams | Protein: 6 grams |
| Sodium: 52 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
SAUTÉED BALSAMIC CHERRIES
(Makes about 2 cups)
Serve these delicious, exotic cherries over your favorite frozen nondairy dessert, vegan shortbread (sweet biscuits), or pancakes. These cherries are good served warm, but they're even better the next day when the balsamic flavor has been absorbed. I've found that using high quality balsamic vinegar makes a big difference in how rich the cherries taste. Try this recipe with peaches or nectarines, too.
2 cups pitted sweet cherries
1 Tablespoon granulated sweetener (optional)
2 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Heat skillet over medium heat. Add cherries and sauté until they are soft. Sprinkle sweetener over cherries (if desired). Stir until all cherries are coated. Add balsamic vinegar, stir, and cook for about 30 seconds. Remove from heat, cool, and serve.
| Total calories per 1/4 cup serving: 29 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 7 grams | Protein: <1 gram |
| Sodium: 1 milligram | Fiber: 1 gram |
Debra Daniels-Zeller is a freelance writer from Washington.
