ANDALUSIA - SPAIN'S TAPA HEAVEN
By Habeeb Salloum
It was an evening to remember in Seville, the beautiful capital of Andalusia. It was the culmination of what we had experienced for days in the world of Andalusian culinary art; we found ourselves in one of the city's hundreds of tapa bars. Here in Andalusia, tapas (a profusion of appetizers) originated, and here they continue to be the epitome of what the land of El Cid has to offer in appetizers. Hence, Andalusia has been labelled "Spain's tapa heaven."
A half dozen pleasant, smiling waiters served us dish after dish of succulent appetizers, each more mouth-watering than the last. Mushrooms cooked with hot peppers; finger-like tasty fried mashed potatoes; pickled olives, onions, and pimientoes made savory with garlic and herbs; spiced spinach and chickpeas; and many other foods were passed among us. It was a panorama of Andalusian tapas — a world of culinary delights. Although not all tapas are meatless, what I relished most that evening were the vegetarian appetizers which later I would often prepare in my kitchen, of course, adjusted to my taste.
In Spanish, tapas means "little lids." Their introduction into the cuisine of Spain goes back into the mist of history. A number of food historians have written that the first tapas were pieces of bread used to cover wine glasses to keep out flies. Others have indicated that, at one time, tapas referred to a plate of appetizers that would be served on top of an ordered glass of wine.
Another theory, however, seems to be more conceivable. Tidbits of food from the simple to the complex served with all types of drinks are also a mainstay in Middle Eastern cuisine. In that part of the world, these foods, always accompanying beverages, are called mazas. Since Andalusia was the homeland of the Arabs in the Iberian Peninsula, and the province is the tapa heartland, these appetizers could very well have been introduced by the Arabs into the Spanish cuisine during the 900 years they lived as conqueror and conquered in that land. There is an obvious connection in serving this type of food between these two parts of the world. The Spanish tradition of gathering before a meal for a drink and the sampling of endless appetizers is to be found, to a large extent, in Spain and the Middle East.
An enormous variety of tapas, from plain foods to sophisticated dishes, is served in homes and public eating places throughout Spain. At times, people forgo the meal after nibbling on these appetizers, which may range from a few dishes to perhaps as many as a hundred. Visitors who become accustomed to tapas typically include them when planning their feasts.
In the land of flamenco, everyone enjoys their drinks in bars or cafés while enjoying a variety of these appetizers. Tapas are always prepared and ready, but some need to be warmed before serving. Every eating or drinking outlet offers from a handful to dozens of these mouth-watering tidbits. Even tourists who do not know the language can partake in this culinary tradition. Displayed openly in glass cases or on top of counters, customers need only point out the ones they desire.
Tascas, something like pubs in England, where one can enjoy a drink while carrying on a conversation and sampling tapas, are the true homes for these delights. In their relaxing atmospheres, no one ever sits alone guzzling drinks. Even in the humblest of bars, simple dishes like nuts and olives always accompany the beverages served to customers. Of course, more complex sapid dishes are found in a good number of these and other food and drink establishments.
This tradition of serving appetizers with drinks is firmly implanted in Andalusian, and in fact all Spanish homes. It matters not if it is in the abodes of the peasants or the villas of the wealth; they are always offered as a prelude to a meal. From a few dishes in the homes of the workers to an endless variety of rich tapas consumed in the mansions of the affluent, no repast is complete without these pillars of Spanish cuisine. Without fail, they are served in the early afternoon or evening as a tantalizing start to the meals. Unquestionably, the pleasures of the principal part of the meal are often reduced by picking away at these tasty appetizers.
On the other hand, tapas can be served, at any hour, as a repast by themselves. Simple to prepare, these famous Spanish appetizers, which have become an institution in that sunny land, are within reach of every cook. Even though most tapas are traditionally meat- and egg-based, there are a good number prepared solely from vegetables. Made tasty with herbs and spices, these vegetable tidbits put to shame many of their meat counterparts.
For the lovers of fine food, these few traditional Andalusian vegetarian tapa dishes, adjusted somewhat, touch only on the fringes of that delicious world of appetizers. All of the following appetizers can be served as tapas or as side dishes.
SEASONED OLIVES
ACEITUNAS ALIÑADAS
(Makes 30 one-ounce servings)
2 cans unpickled black or green olives (14 ounces each), drained
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup olive oil
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
1 teaspoon oregano
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Combine all ingredients, then allow to marinate in the refrigerator for one week, stirring them once a day. Stir every time the olives are served.
| Total calories per serving: 48 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 2 grams | Protein: 0 grams |
| Sodium: 420 milligrams | Fiber: 0 grams |
AVOCADO APPETIZER
AQUACATE TAPA
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
4 ripe medium avocados
Lettuce leaves
Lemon juice
1 small grapefruit, peeled and sectioned
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Peel avocados and remove the stones. Quarter each avocado and arrange on a platter over lettuce leaves. Sprinkle with lemon juice, then decorate with grapefruit and set aside. Combine remaining ingredients, then spoon over avocado and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 271 | Fat: 25 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 14 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 207 milligrams | Fiber: 7 grams |
FRIED PEPPERS
PIMIENTOS FRITOS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
3 Tablespoons olive oil
4 large sweet peppers, seeded and quartered
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Heat oil in a large frying pan. Fry pepper slices until they are lightly browned, adding more oil if necessary.
Place on a serving platter, then sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 81 | Fat: 7 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 5 grams | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 195 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
ARTICHOKE HEARTS IN VINEGAR
CORAZÓN DE ALACHOFAS EN VINAGRETA
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
2 cans artichoke hearts (14 ounces each), drained and quartered
4 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons vinegar
3 Tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Place artichoke hearts in a bowl; set aside.
Combine remaining ingredients and pour over artichokes. Toss, then chill. Place on a platter and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 98 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 10 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 581 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
RED PEPPERS
PIMIENTOS ROJOS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
4 medium sweet red peppers, seeded, then cut into 1/2-inch-wide slices
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
2 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander
Place pepper slices on a serving platter; set aside.
Combine remaining ingredients, then spoon over pepper slices and serve immediately.
| Total calories per serving: 63 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 6 grams | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 196 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS
SETAS REHOGADAS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium-sized onion, chopped
1/2 small hot pepper, seeded and finely chopped
1 pound mushrooms, thoroughly washed and sliced
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon oregano
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
2 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
Heat oil in a large frying pan, then sauté onion and hot pepper over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and garlic, then sprinkle with oregano, salt, and pepper. Stir-fry over medium/low heat until mushrooms turn soft, about 12 minutes. Next, stir in parsley and lemon juice. Serve warm.
| Total calories per serving: 92 | Fat: 7 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 7 grams | Protein: 2 grams |
| Sodium: 199 milligrams | Fiber: 1 gram |
HERB-SEASONED CARROTS
ZANAHORIAS ALIÑADAS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
1 pound carrots, sliced into about 1/8-inch-thick rounds
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 Tablespoons olive oil
2 Tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
2 Tablespoons vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground coriander seeds
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Place carrot rounds in a saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Cover and cook over medium heat for 25 minutes or until carrots are cooked but still firm. Drain and allow to cool in a serving bowl. Combine remaining ingredients, then stir with the carrots and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 75 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 8 grams | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 221 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
MUSHROOMS IN FILBERT SAUCE
SETAS EN SALSA DE AVELLANAS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
3 Tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 pound mushrooms, thoroughly washed and sliced
2 cloves garlic, crushed
4 Tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
4 Tablespoons finely ground filberts (hazel nuts)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
Heat oil in a large frying pan, then sauté onion over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add mushrooms and stir-fry for a few more minutes. Stir in remaining ingredients, then sauté over medium heat until mushrooms are done, adding a little more oil if necessary.
| Total calories per serving: 121 | Fat: 10 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 7 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 195 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
SPINACH AND CHICKPEAS
ESPINACAS CON GARBANZOS
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
1/2 pound spinach, thoroughly washed, then chopped into medium pieces
2 Tablespoons olive oil
3 cloves garlic, crushed
4 Tablespoons finely chopped cilantro
1 cup cooked chickpeas
1 teaspoon vinegar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/4 teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon oregano
1/8 teaspoon rosemary
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
Place spinach in a saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Cook for 5 minutes over medium heat, then drain and set aside.
Heat oil in a large frying pan. Sauté garlic and cilantro for 3 minutes. Add spinach and stir-fry for 1 more minute. Stir in remaining ingredients, then stir-fry for a few minutes longer. Serve warm.
| Total calories per serving: 92 | Fat: 6 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 9 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 318 milligrams | Fiber: 3 grams |
CHICKPEA FRITTERS
BUÑUELOS DE GARBANZO
(Makes about 36 fritters; serves 6)
For this and the following recipe, a baked version is much healthier. Place the fritters or fingers in a greased pan, then bake in a preheated 350 degree oven for 20 minutes. Place under the broiler until the tops brown, then while still hot, brush with olive oil.
1 1/2 cups uncooked chickpeas, soaked for 24 hours, then drained
1/2 small bunch green onions, chopped
1/2 small bunch parsley, chopped
1/2 small hot pepper, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup unbleached white flour
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/2 cup water
Oil for frying
Place all the ingredients, except oil, in a food processor, then process into a smooth batter, adding a little water if necessary. Refrigerate for 2 hours.
In a saucepan, pour oil to about 1 inch deep, then heat. Drop in the batter one Tablespoon at a time, until top of fritter is covered. Fry over medium/high heat until the balls turn golden brown, turning them over once, then repeat until the batter is finished. If fritters tend to break, add a little more flour to the batter. Place cooked fritters on paper towels to drain, then arrange on a platter and serve warm.
| Total calories per serving: 158 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 24 grams | Protein: 6 grams |
| Sodium: 488 milligrams | Fiber: 4 grams |
POTATO AND PISTACHIO FINGERS
DEDOS DE PATATA Y ALFÓNEIGO
(Makes about 40 fingers; serves 8)
2 cups mashed potatoes
3/4 cup ground pistachio nuts
1/2 cup finely chopped green onions
4 cloves garlic, crushed
3/4 cup unbleached white flour
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon oregano
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon cumin
1/8 teaspoon cayenne
4 Tablespoons dry red wine
Flour for dusting hands
Oil for frying
Place all the ingredients, except oil and flour for dusting, in a mixing bowl, then thoroughly combine and chill in a refrigerator for 2 hours.
Dusting your hands in flour every time, form mixture into smaller than walnut-size balls, then roll into about a 2-inch-long finger shape, and continue until all the mixture is finished.
In a saucepan, pour oil to about 3/4-inch depth, then heat. Drop the fingers in the oil and fry over medium/high heat until they turn golden brown, turning them over once. Continue until all fingers are finished. Drain on paper towels. Arrange on a platter and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 221 | Fat: 13 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 23 grams | Protein: 5 grams |
| Sodium: 636 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
POTATO SALAD
ENSALADA DE PATATA
(Serves about 6 as a side dish)
4 Tablespoons finely chopped parsley
4 Tablespoons finely chopped green onions
4 Tablespoons ground almonds
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 small hot pepper, very finely chopped
3 Tablespoons olive oil
3 Tablespoons vinegar
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1/2 teaspoon cumin
4 medium-sized potatoes (about 3 inches long), boiled, then peeled and cut into 3/4-inch cubes
Place all ingredients, except potatoes, in a salad bowl, and thoroughly mix. Add potatoes, then gently toss just before serving.
| Total calories per serving: 170 | Fat: 9 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 21 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 297 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
Note: All the recipes included are simplified versions of well-known Spanish dishes. In the majority of cases, they have been made more tasty by the addition of spices. Also, in the recipes which call for either cilantro or parsley, if the cilantro is used, the dish will be more pungent.
Habeeb Salloum is a regular contributor to Vegetarian Journal. He lives in Canada.
