Tomato Heaven

"Too many tomatoes!" I've seen numerous articles — and even a book — titled with this phrase. If only I could share this lament. This summer, I've been growing three different varieties of tomatoes on my deck. They've had a fairly prolific yield, but every time my sons spot a handful of ripe ones, they're plucked straightaway and eaten out of hand. While others complain about having to make industrial-sized pots of sauce, I barely have enough tomatoes to make a salad. My husband and I have been able to steal but a few tastes of the yellow and red grape tomatoes and Romas. We have smart kids — they already understand that there's no better way to eat an excellent organic tomato than straight from the vine and warm from the sun.

Still, tomatoes are among the most nourishing and versatile of vegetables (or are they fruits? I'll address this question shortly), and it's handy to have a cache of ideas to draw upon when their season is in high gear. Whether you grow barrels of tomatoes in your own garden or buy them by the bushel from the local farmers' market, read on for simple, tasty recipes, tips on preparation and storage, nutritional news, and more.

The Tomato's Intrepid Travels

Tomatoes are believed to have been cultivated by the Aztecs and Incas as early as the 8th century, CE (Common Era). The European conquistadors carried the tomato back from Central and South America to their homelands in seed form in the sixteenth century. Tomatoes found favor in Spain, Italy, and Portugal. For some time, though, Europeans were wary of tomatoes, regarding them more as aphrodisiacs and objects to admire than as sustenance. The French once called the tomato pomme d'amour, which translates as "love apple." On the other hand, as members of the sometimes deadly nightshade family, tomatoes were long considered poi-sonous. Even as recently as the mid-nineteenth century some cookbooks recommended boiling them for several hours to reduce the risk of eating them. I wonder what might be left of a tomato that's been boiled for several hours!

Spanish colonists were most responsible for the tomato's international route. It made its way to Africa and Asia, where cooks began using it in stews and curries, and eventually full circle back to the New World. From the Caribbean, the tomato made its way to what was to become the southern United States, thus cementing its stronghold in nearly every major world cuisine. Today, polls suggest that tomatoes are the third most popular vegetable in our culture, just behind potatoes and lettuce. Most tomatoes grown commercially in the US come from Florida and California.

Fruit or Vegetable? the Tomato on Trial

Botanically, tomatoes are actually fruits — a fruit being defined as the edible part of a plant containing the seeds, while vegetables are the edible stems, leaves, and roots.

The debate over whether tomatoes belong in the fruit or vegetable category once went all the way to the US Supreme Court over a tariff dispute on imports. In 1893, the court ruled that though tomatoes are the fruit of the vine, as are squashes and beans, they "are usually served at dinner . . . and not, like fruits generally, as a dessert." Thus, by decree of the US Supreme Court, the tomato is legally a vegetable!

Basic Tomato Techniques

Drying:

Think you like dried tomatoes? Just wait until you dry your own. The process is incredibly simple and rewarding. You don't need a dehydrator, and unless you live in Tuscany, you don't need the sun, either. All you need is your oven and a little bit of patience. Flavorful plum or Roma tomatoes work most successfully with this technique. Cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Arrange cut side up on a baking sheet. Bake at 200 degrees for 2 to 3 hours, or until they look somewhat collapsed and with edges slightly shriveled. Use as you would sun-dried tomatoes, or eat as a snack.

Grilling:

Slice large, firm tomatoes at least 1/2-inch thick, or cut plum tomatoes in half lengthwise. Brush lightly with olive oil. Cook on a prepared grill on both sides until the edges brown, about 5 to 8 minutes total. Mesh-type grill toppers are useful for grilling tomatoes since they tend to go so soft. Cherry tomatoes are great for using in grilled kebabs. No special preparation is needed aside from basting with whatever marinade you are using.

Puréeing:

Place large chunks of tomato into the workbowl of a food processor. Process until evenly puréed. If you want a smoother purée, put them through a food mill, which will remove the seeds and small bits of skin.

Seeding:

If a recipe calls for seeded tomatoes, simply cut them in half vertically (that is, through the stem end), and scoop out the seeds with a small spoon, such as the 1/2-teaspoon measure of a measuring spoon set.

Skinning:

Removing the skin from tomatoes is not as complicated as it might seem. All you need to do is plunge tomatoes into boiling water for 10 seconds, then remove. Once the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, the skins slip off easily.

Buying and Storing Tomatoes

According to tomato growers as well as gourmands, the biggest mistake people make with tomatoes is to refrigerate them. This compromises their flavor and gives them a mealy texture. Better to buy what is needed for the near term and simply store them on a countertop, away from direct sun. Underripe tomatoes may be put in a paper bag in a dark place and left for a few days (checking often) to ripen and develop flavor.

When buying tomatoes, generally you'd want fairly firm, smooth ones that feel heavy for their size. In July and August, when you might want to use them for cold soups and raw or cooked sauces, don't hesitate to go for softer, squishier tomatoes, but do use them right away.

Good News on the Nutritional Front

Tomatoes and tomato products are so commonplace that we sometimes fail to acknowledge them as the nutritional powerhouses that they are. One medium tomato can provide 40% of the recommended daily value of vitamin C, and 20% for vitamin A.

Even more significant is the news about lycopene. This substance is a carotenoid, a plant pigment which, in this case, gives tomatoes their glowing colors. In numerous studies, lycopene's antioxidant properties have proven so powerful that researchers concur about its ability to reduce risk of several types of cancer. Data thus far indicates beneficial effects against prostate, lung, and stomach cancers, but also extend to several other types, according to a 1999 report in the Journal of the National Cancer Institute by Dr. Edward Giovannucci. A leading researcher at the Harvard Medical School, Dr. Giovannucci concluded, after analyzing the results of 72 studies of their health benefits, that tomatoes and tomato-based products can provide significant protection against many cancers.

A Mayo Clinic health letter also reported that extensive studies of European men found that those who consumed several servings of tomatoes or tomato products each week lowered their risk not only of prostate and other cancers, but heart attacks as well. The same report also concluded that while fresh tomatoes are brimming with lycopene, its usability is increased by cooking tomatoes. A small amount of fat also aids lycopene absorption — all the more reason why tomatoes and olive oil are such perfect partners.

Can you get lycopene from any other foods? It's not easy. The only other major sources are pink grapefruit and watermelon, but they have only a fraction of the lycopene content of tomatoes.

Scientific information on lycopene is from the Journal of the National Cancer Institute (February 17, 1999) and Mayo Clinic Health Oasis (online newsletter — September 29, 1998).