Get Cultured With Homemade Fermented Foods
By Laura McGuiness
Fermented foods are the reason I graduated from the University of California, Berkeley, in the spring of 2016. In need of one last unit to earn my diploma, I enrolled in an elective course about fermented foods. After all, I am easily swayed by foods that I can make at home with minimal ingredients and effort. In this class, I learned about the basic science behind lacto-fermentation, was introduced to a variety of fermented foods, and also discovered the rich history behind fermentation. The most important information I gained was that fermentation has been around for thousands of years.
Despite the lure of new crocks, jars, and fancy ingredients, very little money needs to be spent on a fermentation project to yield a high volume of delicious, probiotic-rich foods. Homemade fermented foods, therefore, are wonderful options for people looking to save money and still maintain a healthful diet.
What is lacto-fermentation? Is the prefix, "lacto," related to milk-derived lactose? The short answer is no. "Lacto" refers to the specific species of bacteria and is short for Lactobacillus. While it can be animal-derived, these bacteria also exist on the surface of all plants. The Lactobacillus bacteria possess the ability to convert sugars into lactic acid and were given this name because the first experiments with these bacteria focused on fermenting dairy products. Lacto-fermentation, however, does not need to involve dairy products!
Supplies
As I mentioned, it is not necessary to spend a lot of money buying accessories. I encourage you to get creative! Look in your garage or home for a few old jars or find a used ceramic crock at a garage sale. The most important thing is to remember not to use any metal objects in the fermentation process as it can damage the cultures. A few useful items to keep on hand are:
Different size glass jars: I would suggest having nearby several wide-mouth quart- and pint-sized jars, at least one straight-sided jar (especially for sourdough starter), and one or two gallon-sized jars. Jars are used for the actual fermentation process as well as for sealing once you are ready to store in the refrigerator.
Ceramic crock: A large ceramic crock was invaluable to me during the wilting stages of the cabbage for sauerkraut and kimchi. If you have a very large non-metal bowl, that should work just as well.
Breathable fabric: Fabrics such as butter muslin, cheesecloth, or even a coffee filter will be used in every fermentation project to protect the mixture from insects and dust. These fabrics will allow for the circulation of air and release of carbon dioxide.
Fermentation weights: Fermentation weights are used to ensure all ingredients are being fully submerged under the brine. Full submersion keeps mold at bay, which is honestly the ultimate goal of any home fermenter. You can buy fermentation weights online or in your local home brewing store, but you can also search around your house for something similar. Pie weights, stones (boiled for 15 minutes before using), an apple or cabbage core, and even a large cabbage leaf has been known to help keep vegetables submerged.
Kraut pounder: A kraut pounder or vegetable stomper is fantastic for pounding down cabbage in hopes of releasing as much brine as possible. A pestle or your own fist can be used as well.
Funnel: A funnel is the kitchen gadget I use the most. I bought a metal funnel with a removable strainer built in. Whether you are attempting to transfer sauerkraut into a pesky narrow-mouth jar or pouring kombucha into Grolsch-style bottles, a funnel is always there to help. The strainer comes in handy for filtering out stringy yeast in kombucha (not necessary but ensures a smooth beverage).
Tea steeper (for kombucha): I find a reusable cotton tea bag is the best for steeping several Tablespoons of loose leaf tea. Your other options include multiple tea bags or several mesh tea balls. (Keep in mind that pouring loose leaf tea into several mesh tea balls can prove to be quite an endeavor.)
Grolsch-style flip-top bottles (for kombucha): If you would like to carbonate your kombucha, investing in several Grolsch Flip-Top bottles is your best bet. Other fermenters have cut costs by using old store-bought kombucha bottles, but I do not find them as reliable. When exploding glass is a worry, I choose to buy the best kind of bottle I can find.
Tips for Successful Fermentation
Sterilizing: Anybody who is familiar with canning knows how important it is to sterilize all equipment. While I have had luck not sterilizing my equipment in the lacto-fermentation process, I have had better, more consistent luck sterilizing my jars before use. Trust me when I say that my greatest culinary disappointments come from spotting mold in my fermentation project.
SCOBY cycles: SCOBY is an acronym for "Symbiotic Culture of Bacteria and Yeast." This thing looks like a smooth, floppy alien. What exactly should I be looking for when brewing kombucha? A SCOBY is a very resilient little colony of bacteria and yeast. When you first pour the mother SCOBY and its starter tea into your batch of kombucha, it will either float to the bottom or the top. Either behavior is fine. After just a few days, you will most likely notice a thin, translucent skin developing on the top of the liquid. After several days or even weeks, this ‘skin' will change color, become thicker, and possibly develop brown stringy bits known as yeast. This is your new daughter SCOBY. From here on out, you can either compost the mother or include it in your next batch to ensure the maturity of your new daughter. (Interestingly enough, I have heard about people eating SCOBYs, even preparing it to resemble vegan meat analog.)
When your first batch of kombucha is finished and you need a place to move your new SCOBY and its mother, wash your hands in white distilled vinegar and transfer the SCOBY(s) to a clean jar (with 2 cups of unflavored kombucha) or a new batch of tea. As you begin growing new SCOBYs, it is a good idea to create a SCOBY hotel. This is just an uncovered jar filled with unflavored kombucha where you can leave SCOBYs to rest. If you ever have a batch of tea that grows mold and you must discard the liquid and SCOBY, you can begin a new batch with a SCOBY from the hotel. Plus, a jar filled with floppy aliens makes for pretty cool kitchen décor, don't you think?
How do I know if I grew mold? This is the question that prevented me from getting started with fermentation earlier in my life. What I've learned, however, is that the human body is very good at noticing when something is off with a food source. Mold growth is green, black, red, or pink and generally grows in raised, fuzzy, circular spots. If a mixture smells putrid and not pleasantly sour, something might be off. If you rely on your senses, you will be able to identify mold where it matters.
Customizations
Fermenting foods at home provides endless possibilities for customization. When reading the following recipes, I encourage you to change them as you see fit. A few ideas for customization are:
Flavors: If you like your kimchi less spicy, you can reduce the amount of gochugaru. If you hate pomegranate juice, change the type of juice you add to your kombucha.
Fermentation time: I like my fermented foods extra sour. To get this level of ferment, I tend to let things sit at room temperature for an extra day. It is important to keep tasting throughout the fermentation period and adjust according to your own preference. While this is encouraged, however, be sanitary about tasting. Use a clean spoon each time you taste; don't put your fingers or mouth directly on crock contents.
Classic Caraway Sauerkraut
(Makes one quart)
1 medium head green cabbage
Up to 3-1/2 Tablespoons kosher salt, divided
1-1/2 Tablespoons caraway seeds
Cut the cabbage in half and remove the core. Shred into long strips using a food processor or a very sharp chef's knife. Transfer the shredded cabbage to a crock and sprinkle 2 Tablespoons salt on top of the cabbage. Massage the salt into the cabbage with your hands for approximately 2 minutes, squeezing and mixing as you go. Allow the cabbage to sit for 10 minutes. Then, stir the caraway seeds in with your hands as well.
At this point, you should have a bit of a brine developing from the water the cabbage has secreted. Transfer the cabbage into a quart-sized Mason jar and press the cabbage down with your fist, a pestle, or a cabbage stomper. As you press the cabbage down, the brine will move to the top. Your goal is to make sure your cabbage is completely underneath the brine. If needed, dissolve 2 Tablespoons of kosher salt into a quart of warm water to make a brine. Pour this into the jar until the cabbage is completely submerged.
Use a strip of cheesecloth to cover the mouth of a jar and fasten the cloth in place with a rubber band. Let it sit on your counter for 7-10 days, tasting throughout the fermentation period with a non-metal utensil. Continue to check throughout the week to ensure your cabbage is remaining submerged. Once fermented to your taste, refrigerate.
| Total calories per 1/4-cup serving: 16 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 3 grams | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 1270 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
Note that this is not a recipe to use if you're on a low sodium diet.
Kimchi
(Makes 2 quarts)
1 medium napa cabbage
1/4 cup kosher salt
6 cups lukewarm water
1/2 medium-sized yellow onion
2-inch piece of ginger, shredded
3 cloves garlic
5 Tablespoons gochugaru (see note below)
Additional water as needed
4 scallions, chopped into 1-inch pieces
Cut the cabbage lengthwise in half and chop into 2-inch pieces. Place the cabbage in a large bowl.
Stir salt into the water until it is completely dissolved, creating a brine. Pour the brine over the cabbage and mix with a wooden spoon, doing your best to ensure that the cabbage is submerged in liquid. Allow the cabbage to sit for 2 hours; this will help wilt the leaves.
Meanwhile, combine the onions, ginger, garlic, and gochugaru in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add water if your food processor is struggling.
After the 2 hours has passed, drain the cabbage, making sure to reserve the brine. Add the chopped scallions and gochugaru mixture, stirring with a wooden spoon. Now you have kimchi!
Pack the kimchi into glass jars, leaving approximately an inch of headspace at the top. Pressing the mixture into the jars should release brine, but if needed, add the reserved brine to ensure the kimchi is submerged.
Top the jars with a piece of cheesecloth, secured with a rubber band, and allow to sit for 24 hours. On the second day, seal the jars with a lid, and allow to sit at room temperature for 48 hours, then refrigerate. Once sealed, the kimchi will become slightly fizzy.
Note: Gochugaru is coarsely ground red pepper with a texture between flakes and powder that is widely used in Korean dishes. You can purchase it in Asian markets and online.
| Total calories per 2-ounce serving: 9 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 2 grams | Protein: <1 gram |
| Sodium: 726 milligrams | Fiber: 1 grams |
Fermented Veggies
(Makes 2 quarts)
4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 pint warm water
One bunch medium to large carrots, peeled, and sliced into sticks
One bunch radishes, with bulbs sliced in half
3 cloves garlic
4 sprigs dill
Make a brine by stirring the salt into warm water until it is completely dissolved.
Place the carrots and radishes into a jar, leaving an inch of headspace. Smash the garlic cloves and add to the jar, pushing them towards the bottom. Add dill. Pour the salt water brine over the vegetables, submerging them completely. Cover the jar with a strip of cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band.
Allow the jar to sit at room temperature for 3-5 days, tasting periodically. Refrigerate.
| Total calories per 1/4-cup serving: 6 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 1 gram | Protein: <1 gram |
| Sodium: 250 milligrams | Fiber: <1 grams |
Simple Sourdough Loaf
(Makes 1 loaf)
Sourdough Starter
1 cup rye flour
1 cup cool water
Mix flour and water together thoroughly until it reaches the consistency of pancake batter. Place in a jar and cover with a piece of cheesecloth and secure with a rubber band. Allow to sit at room temperature for 1 day.
Daily Feeding for One Week
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cool tap water
After one day, discard 1/2 cup of starter. Add flour and water, stir well to remove any lumps, cover, and allow to sit at room temperature for another day.
Repeat this process for a week until you have a well-fed sourdough starter. This will smell sour and yeasty.
Discarding 1/2 cup of starter every day sounds like a waste, but continuing to feed the starter will leave you with several gallons of fermenting flour. If you do not believe me, just look up "The Sourdough That Ate Milwaukee."
Bread
2 cups Sourdough Starter (above)
1 cup cool water
6 cups all-purpose flour, divided
1 Tablespoon salt
Vegetable oil
Mix the Sourdough Starter, water, and half the flour with a wooden spoon until it is completely combined. Slowly add salt and remaining flour while continuing to stir the mixture. Your dough should be sticky and easy to ‘pour' out of the bowl.
Oil a bowl and transfer the dough into it. Allow the dough to sit at room temperature for 1 hour or until mixture has doubled in size. Transfer the dough to an oiled Dutch oven and allow to sit, uncovered, at room temperature for 1 hour. Once the bread is done rising, make a slash in the middle of the dough with a serrated knife.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. With the lid on, transfer the dough into the oven and bake for 1 hour, checking often. The bread's crust should have a golden-brown color, and the internal temperature should be 200 degrees. During the last 10 minutes, crack open the oven door. This will ensure a crisp crust.
| Total calories per 1/16 loaf: 199 | Fat: 1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 41 grams | Protein: 6 grams |
| Sodium: 437 milligrams | Fiber: 2 grams |
Strawberry Cream Cheese
(Makes 1 quart)
1 cup raw, unsalted cashews, soaked overnight
2 Tablespoons plain, unsweetened coconut yogurt
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Filtered water
1/2 cup strawberries, chopped
3 extra strawberries
Drain the liquid from your soaked cashews and blend them in a food processor or blender until smooth.
Add the yogurt and salt, plus water if needed to thin. Transfer the mixture to a clean container, cover with a piece of cheesecloth, and secure with a rubber band. Allow to sit at room temperature for 48 hours.
Wrap the resulting ‘cheese' in cheesecloth and squeeze out any of the liquid over the sink. Place the ‘cheese' into a food processor with 1/2 cup strawberries and blend until a bright pink. Chop the 3 extra strawberries and fold the small pieces into the cream cheese by hand.
| Total calories per 2 Tablespoon serving: 22 | Fat: 2 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 1 gram | Protein: 1 gram |
| Sodium: 31 milligrams | Fiber: <1 gram |
Pomegranate Kombucha
(Makes 1 gallon)
Initial Ferment
1 gallon water
1 cup organic cane sugar
2-3 Tablespooons black tea in metal steeper
1 SCOBY (see note below)
2 cups starter kombucha tea
Bring the water to a boil. Remove from heat and add both the sugar and tea while stirring. Allow the tea to steep until the mixture cools to room temperature (could be several hours).
Remove the tea steeper and pour the tea into the vessel of your choice. Add your SCOBY and the starter kombucha it came in. Cover the vessel with cheesecloth, securing with a rubber band. Place this in a warm spot and allow to ferment for 1-3 weeks, depending on taste.
It is important to periodically taste your kombucha, but do not drink straight from the jar. Instead dip your straw into the tea, cover the top with your finger, lift the straw (containing a small amount of the tea) out of the jar, and release the tea into your mouth. When you are pleased with the taste of your tea, remove your SCOBY and retain two cups of unflavored tea.
Flavoring
3-1/2 cups 100% pomegranate juice
Add the pomegranate juice to the tea. Stir the mixture thoroughly and taste again.
You can flavor kombucha however you would like. Instead of using fruit juice, you could simply add fresh or dried fruit to the bottom of your bottles. (I have had great results with fresh raspberries.) You can also add herbs and spices, such as turmeric or lavender. There are nearly endless possibilities.
Carbonating
You can now use a funnel to transfer the tea into Grolsch-style, flip-top bottles. Place these bottles in a closed, dark cupboard for 3 days. Once a day, flip the tops open to burp the bottles. This allows the carbon dioxide to escape, thus releasing pressure and potentially preventing bottles from exploding during the carbonation process. Refrigerate after 3 days.
Note: Usually, the SCOBY can be bought floating in a jar of starter tea. You should be able to buy one from your local home brewing store or by connecting with a fermentation community near you. Craigslist, Reddit, Facebook groups, and other online communities should be able to point you towards a local home brewer.
| Total calories per 4-ounce serving: 41 | Fat: <1 gram |
| Carbohydrates: 10 grams | Protein: <1 gram |
| Sodium: <1 milligram | Fiber: <1 gram |
Laura is a former VRG intern and continues to volunteer! She lives in California.
