Island Ital Flavors in Jamaica
By Liz Solms
In Jamaica, to be vegan is to be a part of the rich food tradition of the island. Beyond well-known Jamaican jerk chicken, a large section of the population is vegan for religious purposes, particularly Seventh-day Adventists and Rastafarians.
Rastas eschew anything dead and prefer Ital cuisine. Ital is a style of cooking that eliminates animal products as well as processed ingredients, additives, oil, salt, and sugar. They believe eating is really a political act. To defy Babylon — the powers that be — one must choose what one eats carefully to have the most healthful diet possible, despite what industrial food companies want us to consume.
So when traveling in Jamaica, not only can you eat plentifully as a vegan, but by doing so you are learning about an important element of Jamaican culture and history. Jamaica is a big island, about the same size as New Jersey. To see a lot of the island, and eat your way through it, here are some suggestions for the best Ital pit stops across Jamaica.
Montego Bay
If you're coming from abroad, most likely you'll land in Montego Bay. Stop off for
an Ackee Patty at Adwa Nutrition for Life, an unassuming health food store in the
Westgate Shopping Mall just minutes from the airport. Ackee is a starchy tree fruit
with taste and consistency similar to eggs, and is a staple in the Jamaican diet.
Served in a patty, and encased in a soft whole-wheat dough, it is spicy and
flavorful. Call Adwa at (876) 952-6554.
Negril
Negril has two distinctive destinations: you're either going to the touristy beach
side lined with all-inclusive hotels, or the rootsy side, populated mostly by small
independent guest houses, restaurants, and hotels, precariously perched along the
cliffs. Down the winding road you'll find Ras Rody, a simple roadside stand that
serves heaping piles of traditional Ital food. You can either eat your stewed peas
with veggie chunks (a staple and favorite dish) on a humble stool roadside, or carry
your to-go container of whole-wheat dumplings, pumpkin, and curried tofu to a nice
spot by the ocean. More information at www.rasrody.com.
Treasure Beach
About 90 minutes towards the South Coast lies the sleepy village of Treasure Beach.
Though the town is most well-known for fish and bammy (a cassava cake), the stylish
Hotel Jakes serves a delicious Ital Stew at its seaside restaurant. The rotating
menu always includes at least one vegan entr?e and a handful of vegan and vegetarian
appetizers. My personal favorite is the calalloo fritters (a locally grown green,
similar to collards), served with sweet and sour sauce. More info at www.jakeshotel.com.
Kingston
Driving east to Jamaica's busy and crowded capital city, you'll find so many
delicious vegan options, you might not even know where to begin.
For something really different, visit Mi' Hungry, an entirely raw food establishment. A great thing to try is their pizza made with a nut crust and nut-based "cheese," topped with chopped local veggies and Jamaica's notoriously hot Scotch Bonnet pepper.
Learn more at www.facebook.com/MihungryWholSomeFood.
For something more traditional, check out Dr. Spice in Papine, a bustling bus stop area and the gateway to the Blue Mountains. Dr. Spice serves massive portions of rice and peas, greens, and "food," the Jamaican term for ground provisions simply steamed like green banana, dasheen, and pumpkin. www.facebook.com/Dr-Spice-Natural-Food-Restaurant-156387156354
Vegans will not wilt away in Jamaica, they will thrive! You'll be pleasantly surprised as a vegan traveler to Jamaica when you sample the signature Ital cuisne and the fresh flavors of the island's native produce.
Liz Solms has dedicated her career to improving the agricultural landscape of Jamaica. To this end, she's completed successful projects at private coastal villas, high-end hotels, coffee farms, and fruit plantations. She has lived on the island almost 15 years.
