Learn to Love Leeks
By Nava Atlas
Whenever I use leeks, those charmingly awkward outliers of the onion and garlic family, I tell myself that I should do so more often. Arguably a somewhat neglected vegetable, this makes the dishes in which I remember to use them all the more enjoyable.
Common leeks somewhat resemble giant scallions. Though they may look a bit intimidating at first glance, prepping and using them isn't at all difficult. When cooked, leeks have a wonderfully silky texture and a flavor that's milder and a bit sweeter than that of their botanical cousins.
Buying and Storage
Once you become aware of leeks, you'll notice that they're widely available. You'll encounter them in supermarkets, natural foods stores, Asian groceries,
and farmers' markets, often sold in fresh bunches of two, three, or four. Other varieties include baby leeks and Chinese leeks, but here we'll concern ourselves only with the common type.
Leeks with yellowed or withered tops are past their prime, so avoid them. The edible portion (the white and light green parts) should look smooth, plump, and unblemished.
Store leeks in a plastic produce bag in the refrigerator; don't prep or wash them until ready to use. Leeks will keep for at least a week in the refrigerator, though like other types of produce, it's best to use them soon after purchase for optimal flavor and freshness.
Basic Prep
To prepare leeks, cut off the tops just after the lightest green part. The dark green tops are too tough to eat, but if rinsed well, they can be chopped and simmered in soup stock to add flavor. Otherwise, simply discard or compost.
Cut off the coarsely bristled end and discard as well. You'll be left with the white and palest green part of the leek. Cut this usable part in half lengthwise, then into 1/4-inch-thick half-rings. I find that cutting them like this (as opposed to full rings) makes it easier to clean them thoroughly.
Often, sandy soil is lodged among leeks' layers, so rinsing thoroughly is super important. Place the half-rings in a colander and run water over them, separating them as you do, until completely clean. If very sandy, first put the slices into a bowl of water and swish around to loosen before transferring to a colander to complete the rinsing.
Leek and Potato Soup with Watercress
(Serves 6)
4 medium or 3 large leeks, white and palest green parts only
2 Tablespoons olive oil (1/4 cup water for oil-free)
4 large potatoes, such as Yukon gold, peeled and diced
1 bay leaf
2 low-sodium vegetable bouillon cubes
1 cup packed watercress leaves (including some chopped stems), rinsed and drained
1-1½ cups plain unsweetened vegan milk, as needed
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, or more, to taste
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction. Heat the oil in a large soup pot. Add the prepped leeks and sautén oil over medium heat, covered, until they just begin to turn golden, about 6-8 minutes. Stir occasionally and add tiny amounts of water to keep the bottom of the pot moist. (For oil-free, simply use water and sweat the leeks until tender for about the same amount of time. Drain off any remaining water.)
Add the potatoes, bay leaf, bouillon cubes, and just enough water to cover. Bring to a slow boil, then simmer gently, covered, until the potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.
Mash some of the potatoes against the side of the pot with a wooden spoon. Add the watercress and plant-based milk and simmer over very low heat for 10 minutes longer. Season with pepper.
If time allows, let the soup stand off the heat for an hour or two before serving, and heat through before serving. Stir in the parsley just before serving. If needed, adjust the consistency with more plant-based milk, then taste for additional pepper.
| Total calories per serving: 294 | Fat: 6 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 54 grams | Protein: 8 grams |
| Sodium: 116 milligrams | Fiber: 7 grams |
Warm Leek and Potato Salad
(Serves 6)
6 medium red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and diced
3 medium or 2 large leeks, white and palest green parts only
One 6-ounce jar marinated artichoke hearts
1 medium red pepper, cut into narrow l-inch strips
1/2 cup frozen green peas, thawed and steamed
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup bottled or homemade vinaigrette, or more, as needed
2 teaspoons yellow or Dijon mustard
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
In a large saucepan, combine the potatoes with enough water to cover, plus 2 extra cups. Bring to a rapid boil, then turn the heat down and simmer gently for 7-8 minutes, or until just tender. Drain and transfer to a serving bowl and cover.
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction. Add leeks to the same saucepan along with 1/4 cup water, and sweat over medium heat for 6-8 minutes, or until tender. Stir occasionally.
Add the leeks and the remaining ingredients to the potatoes and toss together well. Serve warm or at room temperature.
| Total calories per serving: 265 | Fat: 7 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 46 grams | Protein: 3 gram |
| Sodium: 249 milligrams | Fiber: 6 grams |
Sautéed Leeks with Fennel and Mushrooms
(Serves 4)
2 large or 3 medium leeks, white and palest green parts only; fronds reserved for garnish
1 large fennel bulb
1 Tablespoon olive oil, (optional)
2 Tablespoons dry white wine or water
6-8 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
1/4 cup minced fresh parsley
1/4 cup chopped walnuts or sliced almonds, toasted if desired
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction.
Trim the stalks away from the fennel bulb. Quarter and slice the bulbs, then slice the stalks thinly. Reserve the delicate leaves.
In a large skillet, heat the optional oil plus the wine or water. Add leeks, fennel, and mushrooms, and sauté over medium heat, stirring frequently, until leeks are wilted and fennel is tender-crisp, about 10-12 minutes. Add tiny amounts of water if needed to keep the skillet moist.
When the vegetables are done to your liking, stir in the parsley and nuts. Season with pepper, then serve garnished with fennel fronds.
| Total calories per serving: 142 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 22 grams | Protein: 5 grams |
| Sodium: 88 milligrams | Fiber: 6 grams |
Mashed Sweet Potatoes with Leeks and Walnuts
(Serves 5)
4 large sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
2 Tablespoons vegan butter or margarine
1/2 cup plain unsweetened vegan milk
Pinch nutmegv
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 large or 3 medium leeks, white and palest green parts only
1-1/2 Tablespoons olive oil (or see oil-free option in instructions)
1/2 cup chopped toasted walnuts
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
Small sage leaves for garnish, (optional)
In a large saucepan, combine the sweet potatoes with enough water to cover, plus 2 extra cups. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat down and simmer gently for 10 minutes, or until fork-tender. Add more water if need be. Drain and transfer to a shallow bowl.
Mash sweet potatoes well, working in the margarine and milk. Sprinkle in nutmeg and season with pepper. Pat the mashed sweet potatoes into a small casserole dish, cover, and set aside.
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction. In a large skillet or stir-fry pan, combine leeks with about 1/2 cup water. Cover and cook over medium heat until just tender, stirring occasionally, about 6-8 minutes. Drain off any liquid.
Turn up the heat to medium-high and drizzle in the oil. Sauté for 3-5 minutes, or until the leeks develop golden spots here and there. (For oil-free, simply skip this step).
Stir the walnuts and parsley in with the leeks and remove from the heat.
Scatter the leek mixture over the sweet potatoes. Garnish the top with a few sage leaves. To serve piping hot, microwave briefly before serving, or pop into a hot oven for a few minutes.
| Total calories per serving: 339 | Fat: 16 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 45 grams | Protein: 6 grams |
| Sodium: 103 milligrams | Fiber: 7 grams |
Persian-Style Spinach and Leeks with Black-Eyed Peas
(Serves 6)
2 medium leeks, white and palest green parts only
2 Tablespoons olive oil (or 1/4 cup water for oil-free)
Two 5-ounce packages baby spinach
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
4 scallions, sliced
3 to 3-1/2 cups cooked or two 15-ounce cans (drained and rinsed) black-eyed peas
Juice of 1/2-1 lemon, to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
6 cups hot cooked rice or couscous
Plain vegan yogurt for serving (optional)
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction.
In an extra-large skillet or a steep-sided stir-fry pan, heat the oil and add leeks. Sauté for 6-8 minutes, or until tender. Stir occasionally and add tiny amounts of water to keep the bottom of the pot moist. (For oil-free, simply use water and sweat the leeks until tender for about the same amount of time. Drain off any remaining water.)
Add the spinach, parsley, scallions, and 1/4 cup water. Cover and steam just until the spinach starts to wilt, to make room in the pan.
Stir in the black-eyed peas, lemon juice, and spices. Cook until just heated through; then season as desired.
Serve over 1 cup hot grains per serving, topping each serving with a small amount of vegan yogurt, if desired.
| Total calories per serving: 476 | Fat: 13 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 74 grams | Protein: 14 grams |
| Sodium: 72 milligrams | Fiber: 10 grams |
Simmered Tofu with Leeks and Tomatoes
(Serves 5)
2 large or 3 medium leeks, white and palest green parts only
One 14- or 16-ounce container extra-firm tofu
1-1/2 Tablespoons neutral oil (such as canola or grapeseed)
2 large or 3 medium flavorful ripe tomatoes, diced
2 Tablespoons lite soy sauce or tamari, to taste
2 Tablespoons dry wine or sherry, (optional)
1 Tablespoon white wine vinegar or rice vinegar
2 teaspoons organic sugar or agave
1 teaspoon dark sesame oil
Sriracha or dried hot red pepper flakes, to taste
5 cups hot cooked grains (rice, couscous, quinoa, etc.)
Prepare leeks as directed under Basic Prep in the introduction.
Cut the tofu into 6 slabs horizontally and blot well between layers of paper towel or clean tea towel, or use a tofu press ahead of time. Cut the slabs into dice.
Heat the oil in a large skillet or stir-fry pan. Add tofu and stir-fry over medium-high heat until golden on most sides, 8-10 minutes. Remove to a plate or bowl.
In the same pan, combine leeks with 1/4 cup water. Cover and sweat over medium heat for 6-8 minutes, or until nearly tender.
Stir tofu back into the pan along with the remaining ingredients (except for the grains). Cover and simmer over low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Serve straight from the pan over a cup of hot cooked grains (shown with steamed brown rice and red quinoa).
| Total calories per serving: 412 | Fat: 12 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 63 grams | Protein: 16 grams |
| Sodium: 232 milligrams | Fiber: 6 grams |
Nava Atlas is the author of many vegan cookbooks, including Vegan Holiday Kitchen, Wild About Greens, and Plant-Powered Protein. She recently republished her first book, Vegetariana, in an updated vegan edition. Visit her at TheVeganAtlas.com
