Collard Comforts
by Nava Atlas
With oversized fan-shaped leaves, collard greens can look intimidating to the unfamiliar eater. Emblematic of classic American Southern cuisine, collards have nonetheless lagged behind kale as a trendy viral vegetable.
Collards deserve a prominent place in plant-forward dishes. They're widely available in supermarkets nearly year round, and in farmers markets during their peak harvest seasons, typically January through April. As a cool-weather crop, collards are at their best in the early spring and late fall. What they lack in versatility compared with kale, in that they're not generally used raw, they make up for in a more mild, slightly sweet flavor when cooked.
Overcooked collards can turn into a murky morass with a ghastly odor—and flavor—to match. Stir-frying, quick-braising, or even roasting yields the best results, preserving their more alluring qualities, including a brighter color, flavor, and texture.
Buying and storing collard greens: Look for collard greens with unblemished leaves and plump stalks. Collards are often sold in bunches averaging 10-12 ounces. If the bunch you buy weighs a little more or less, it won't affect the outcome. Wrap the collards in paper towel, then a plastic bag, and refrigerate for storage. Use within three days for optimal flavor, though they'll keep for several days longer.
Nutrient superstars: Like other dark leafy greens, collards are good sources of vitamins and minerals. Similar to kale, the calcium content in collard greens is significant and noteworthy.
Leafy swap-ins: While these recipes are designed to entice you to enjoy collard greens, feel free to swap an equivalent amount of other hardy greens. Any variety of kale and chard will yield similar results in terms of texture and flavor. Mustard greens and broccoli rabe will add a little bite.
"[Collard] greens are special. They don't come through the back door the same as other groceries. They don't cower at the bottom of paper bags marked 'Liberty.' They wave over the top . . . No waiting, sometimes for years beyond the blue sell- by date, to be picked up and taken from the shelf. Greens don't stack or stand at attention . . . Cans can't contain them. Boxed in they would burst free. Greens are wild. Plunging them into a pot took some doing . . . Then, retrieving them requires the longest of my mother's wooden spoons, the one with the burnt end. Swept onto a plate like the seaweed after a storm, greens sit tall, dark, and proud." Georgia Scott, American Girl: Memories That Made Me
Stir-Fried Collard Greens and Cabbage
(Serves 4-6 as a side dish)
One 10- to 12-ounce bunch collard greens
1-1/2 Tablespoons olive oil or water, divided
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1 cup shredded carrots or thin baby carrots
2 cups thinly sliced green or savoy cabbage
2 scallions, thinly sliced
1/4 cup water
1 Tablespoon lemon juice
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
Pinch dried hot red pepper flakes, optional
With kitchen shears or a knife, cut the collard leaves away from the stems. Stack 5 or 6 similar-sized leaves atop one another. Roll up snugly from one of the narrow ends, then slice thinly crosswise, winding up with longish ribbons. Chop ribbons in a few places to shorten. Place in a colander and rinse well.
Heat about half the oil or water in a wide skillet or stir-fry pan. Add garlic and sauté for a minute or so over low heat. Add collard greens, and layer carrots, cabbage, and scallions over them in that order. Turn heat up to medium and add water. Cover and steam for about 3-4 minutes.
Drain off any excess water and drizzle in the remaining oil or water. Turn heat up to medium-high and stir-fry for 3-4 minutes longer, or until all vegetables are tender-crisp to your liking.
Add lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Add red pepper flakes, if you'd like. Serve at once.
| Total calories per serving: 99 | Fat: 6 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 11 grams | Protein: 3 grams |
| Sodium: 43 milligrams | Fiber: 5 grams |
Spicy Collard Greens with Black-Eyed Peas and Tomatoes
(Serves 4)
One 10- to 12-ounce bunch collard greens, rinsed
1 Tablespoon olive oil or water
3-4 shallots or 1 medium onion, minced
2-3 cloves garlic, minced
1-2 small fresh chili peppers, deseeded and minced
2 cups diced ripe tomatoes
3 cups cooked or two 15-ounce cans black-eyed peas, drained and rinsed
1 Tablespoon apple cider vinegar
Smoked paprika, to taste
Salt, to taste
With kitchen shears or a knife, cut the collard leaves away from the stems. Stack 5 or 6 similar-sized leaves atop one another. Roll up snugly from one of the narrow ends, then slice thinly crosswise, winding up with longish ribbons. Chop ribbons in a few places to shorten. Set aside.
Heat oil or water in a large skillet. Add shallots or onions and sauté over medium heat until translucent. Add garlic and chilies and continue to sauté until onions are golden.
Add collards and just enough water to keep the bottom of the skillet moist. Turn heat up to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, for 3-4 minutes, or until bright green and tender-crisp.
Add tomatoes, black-eyed peas, and vinegar. Continue to cook until the mixture comes to a gentle simmer, approximately 3 minutes.
Season with smoked paprika until the dish imparts the amount of flavor that appeals to you. Season with salt and serve at once.
Cook's Note: This is absolutely delicious served with or over cooked stone-ground grits; it's also good over rice or any other grain.
| Total calories per serving: 247 | Fat: 5 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 40 grams | Protein: 14 grams |
| Sodium: 26 milligrams | Fiber: 13 grams |
Hoisin-Glazed Collard Greens and Sweet Potatoes
(Serves 4-6 as a side dish)
One 10- to 12-ounce bunch collard greens
2 Tablespoons olive oil or water, divided
1 medium red onion, quartered and thinly sliced
2 large or 3 medium sweet potatoes
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup hoisin sauce
1 Tablespoon reduced-sodium soy sauce or tamari
2 Tablespoons maple syrup or agave
Dried hot red pepper flakes to taste, optional
With kitchen shears or a knife, cut the collard leaves away from the stems. Stack 5 or 6 similar-sized leaves atop one another. Roll up snugly from one of the narrow ends, then slice thinly crosswise, winding up with long ribbons. Chop ribbons in a few places to shorten. Place in a colander and rinse well, then set aside.
Heat half the oil or water in a large skillet. Add onions and sauté over medium-low heat until golden and tender.
Meanwhile, peel sweet potatoes. Cut them in half lengthwise, then into ¼-inch-thick half slices. Add to the skillet along with water. Cover and steam until just tender but still firm.
Stir in hoisin sauce, soy sauce, and sweetener. Turn heat up to medium-high and cook, gently stirring with a spatula. Add small amounts of water to continually deglaze the skillet, until the sweet potatoes are tender and nicely glazed. Cover and set aside.
Heat remaining oil or water in another skillet or stir-fry pan. Add collard greens and just enough water to keep the skillet moist. Turn up heat and cook, stirring frequently, until bright green and tender-crisp; 3-4 minutes. Remove from heat and gently stir into skillet with the sweet potatoes. Season gently with red pepper flakes, if desired; taste to see if you'd like to add a little more hoisin sauce. Serve at once.
| Total calories per serving: 266 | Fat: 9 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 41 grams | Protein: 5 grams |
| Sodium: 382 milligrams | Fiber: 7 grams |
Rosemary Potatoes and Collard Greens with Vegan Sausage
(Serves 4 as a main dish or 6 as a side dish)
6 medium-large Yukon Gold potatoes, scrubbed
One 10- to 12-ounce bunch collard greens
2 Tablespoons olive oil or water
3-4 cloves garlic, minced
2 links vegan sausage, cut into 1/2-inch slices
¼ cup dry white wine or water
2 sprigs fresh or 1-2 teaspoons dried rosemary
1 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
1/4 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Bake or microwave potatoes until they can be pierced with a fork but are still firm. When cool enough to handle, cut in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/2-inch-thick half circles. Leave the peels on if organic and well-scrubbed; otherwise, peel.
With kitchen shears or a knife, cut the collard leaves away from the stems. Stack 5 or 6 similar-sized leaves atop one another. Roll snugly from one of the narrow ends, then slice thinly crosswise, creating longish ribbons. Chop the ribbons in a few places to shorten. Place in a colander and rinse well. Set aside.
Heat oil or water in a large skillet. Add garlic and sauté over low heat until golden. Add collard greens. Turn heat up to medium-high and cook, stirring frequently, until collards are bright green and just tender-crisp. Add sweet potatoes, sausage, and wine or water. Turn the heat down to medium and sauté until potatoes and sausage are touched with golden-brown spots here and there.
Sprinkle in rosemary, paprika, and red pepper flakes and sauté for 2-3 minutes longer, stirring frequently. Season with salt and pepper and serve.
Cook's Note: Swap in one large baked or microwaved sweet potato for two of the Yukon Gold potatoes.
| Total calories per main dish serving: 446 | Fat: 14 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 58 grams | Protein: 17 grams |
| Sodium: 276 milligrams | Fiber: 9 grams |
Roasted Collard Greens with Polenta and Brussels Sprouts
(Serves 4-6 as a side dish)
One 10- to 12-ounce bunch collard greens
12 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
1 Tablespoon balsamic or red wine vinegar
One 18-ounce tube prepared polenta
1/2 medium red bell pepper, finely diced
2 Tablespoons olive oil
1/4-3/4 cup Kalamata olives, halved
2 teaspoons salt-free seasoning blend
Freshly ground pepper, to taste
Preheat oven to 425 degrees.
With kitchen shears or a knife, cut the collard leaves away from the stems. Stack 5 or 6 similar-sized leaves atop one another. Roll up snugly from one of the narrow ends, then slice thinly crosswise, winding up with longish ribbons. Chop ribbons in a few places to shorten. Place in a colander and rinse well. Then, blot dry with paper towel or a clean tea towel.
Coat your palms with a little olive oil and massage it into the collard leaves. You can do this while they're still in the colander. Set aside.
Place the Brussels sprouts in a large mixing bowl. Drizzle in the vinegar and stir to coat.
Cut polenta into 12 even slices, each about 1/2-inch thick. Cut each slice into quarters to make little wedges.
Add polenta and bell peppers to the mixing bowl with the Brussels sprouts. Drizzle in oil and transfer to a parchment-lined roasting pan.
Roast for 20 minutes, stirring after the first 10 minutes. Then, pile collards atop everything. After 5 minutes, they should be wilted enough to stir in with the Brussels sprouts and polenta.
Add olives and sprinkle in seasoning blend. Roast for 5-10 minutes longer, or until Brussels sprouts and polenta are lightly browned here and there. Remove from the oven, season with pepper, and serve.
| Total calories per serving: 241 | Fat: 10 grams |
| Carbohydrates: 34 grams | Protein: 8 grams |
| Sodium: 457 milligrams | Fiber: 7 grams |
Nava Atlas is the author of many vegan cookbooks. Her most recent is the fifth edition of Vegan Soups and Stews for All Seasons, now featuring gorgeous photography by Hannah Kaminsky. Visit Nava at TheVeganAtlas.com and LiteraryLadiesGuide.com
