Exotic Produce 101

More and more produce varieties are available at your local grocery and farmers' markets. Yellow bell peppers, baby artichokes, grape tomatoes, and seedless cucumbers are almost commonplace nowadays. These are making room for candy cane (pink and white striped) beets, cherimoyas (custard apples), limequats (a natural cross of limes and kumquats), and Moro oranges (an original native of Italy, also called ‘blood' or ‘volcano' oranges for their fiery red interiors).

Asian Produce

As interest in ethnic cuisine continues to grow, so does the need for Asian produce. Americans are inclining to spicy, aromatic foods that are the signature of most Asian cuisines, according to Greg Drescher, Director of Education at Greystone, the Culinary Institute of America's West Coast branch.

So, how about some Gai with your Fun? Asian greens are easy to prepare and attractive on the plate. For your family and friends, these greens are exotic enough to be interesting but familiar enough not to be scary. Below is a list of some Asian greens. Their definitions can be found online at <www.vrg.org/journal/vj2004issue4/2004_issue4_healthyasian.php>.

• Bok choy
• Napa (or Chinese) cabbage
• Gai choy (or mustard cabbage)
• Ong choy (water spinach)
• Gai lan (Chinese broccoli)
• Asian basil (also called Thai basil)
• Asian mint (called shiso or green perilla)
• Cilantro

More on Asian Produce

Eggplant, or aubergine, did not originate in a field of parmigiana but rather in the woks of Asia. Asian eggplants come in a rainbow that begins with the palest white and ends in the deepest royal purple, with pale greens and lavenders in between. Asian eggplant shapes start at tiny pea and oval egg, progress to tennis ball, and end at the usual oblong. Pea eggplants are chubby green balls that grow in clusters and add a welcome bitterness to curries and salads.

Thai eggplants resemble veggie golf balls and can be white and green, all white, or all green. They are crunchy and tart and appeal to American tastes.

Slender eggplants, also called baby or Japanese eggplants, are slightly spicy and are usually white-fleshed with edible purple skin. They can be used in soups, stir-fries, or cassoulets or as a side dish on their own. Use Japanese eggplant to make tempura along with the usual carrots, potatoes, squash, green beans, and bell peppers.

Preparing Asian vegetables

Asian veggies require little assembly. All you need is a little fast heat, a dash of sauce, and a small amount of liquid. You probably already have vegetable broth, ginger, garlic, onions, and soy sauce. You may want to add some of the following to your pantry so you can just stir-fry or sauté, add some sauce, and serve up fast and easy gourmet Asian dishes:

Garam Masala, which carries Indian, Malaysian, and Indonesian flavors, is a mixture of ground spices, usually containing cinnamon, black pepper, cumin, cloves, cardamom, and nutmeg.

Hoisin Sauce is a thick, red sauce made from soybeans, garlic, sugar, and spices that adds a tang and sweetness to sautéed greens. (Check the label to ensure it is vegan.)

Miso is a Japanese staple made from fermented soybeans and wheat, rice, or barley. It comes in a variety of colors and flavors. Miso has a wine-like taste and can be used in sauces and soups.

Curry Paste spice combos are ground and mixed with oil to form fiery flavors. Every country and region has its own curry mixture. Indonesian sambal pastes have red chilies and (non-vegan) shrimp paste, while Ceylon curry has fennel, fenugreek, and cumin. Purchase a basic chili paste, many of which are vegan, and add your own signature fire.

Soy Sauce There are many varieties of soy sauce. Chinese soy sauce is generally stronger, while the Japanese varieties of soy sauce are more delicate. There are even lower sodium versions. Have a tasting and match your menu items with the soy sauce you prefer.

ASIAN FRUITS

Many Asian fruits are becoming available to the consumer, such as the pummelo. The largest citrus on earth, this fruit tastes like a very sweet grapefruit and resembles this cousin on steroids. However, looks are deceiving, as pummelos are mostly very fragrant skin. The interior flesh can be white, yellow, or pink and is eaten like a navel orange. Pummelos are very seasonal and costs may vary, so include cautiously in your menu.

The blood orange, a hybrid of several types of sweet oranges, may have an entirely red or a red and orange striped interior. It is traditionally used for sauces and bar beverages. "Moro" is a new name for the blood orange. Usually seedless, the Moro is very aromatic, redolent with the scent of roses and berries. The culinary legend Escoffier preferred to use Moro orange juice in sauces and beverages to capitalize on both its flavor and its dramatic appearance.

We feel it is our responsibility to warn you against one fruit, however. Jackfruit is very popular throughout Asia, although its aroma is so strong that some hotels do not allow guests to bring fresh jackfruit into their facilities. Jackfruits usually weigh approximately 10-14 pounds each, are covered with a knobby brown skin that may remind you of a fruit-flavored armadillo, and have a multitude of black seeds. They have a flavor that could be compared, when downwind, to overripe protein. If you are still really curious about this item, you can find frozen cubed jackfruit and canned jackfruit juice in Asian markets.

CITRUS FRUITS

The diverse family of citrus fruits and blossoms is versatile and durable. When stored in cool rooms, most citrus fruits will last for at least two to three weeks, serving as perfume for rooms, centerpieces, edible garnishes, beverages, and cooking ingredients.

Most oranges, grapefruits, and tangerines can be broiled or grilled. Beforehand, you may want to brush them with rice or maple syrup for a sweet counterpoint or with chili paste and pepper for a savory taste. Prepare a scented oil by combining one cup of olive oil with 3 Tablespoons of fresh lemon, lime, grapefruit, pummelo, or orange zest (grated rind). Use the scented oil in cooking or dressing salads.

Seville oranges, clementines, kumquats, limequats, and citron are just some of the "new" fruits available seasonally. Check with your local produce manager for fresh citrus, dried zest, and shelf-stable or frozen concentrates or purées.

The Seville orange, or bitter orange, is the ancestor of the modern sweet orange. Use it when you seek an orange flavor that is not too sweet.

A hybrid of mandarin oranges and bitter oranges, the clementine is usually available from November through March. It is named after Father Clement Dozier, a French missionary to Algeria who developed the fruit in 1905. The clementine is very juicy, slightly acidic, and easy to peel. Use clementine segments as a garnish for elegant desserts and beverages.

Citron is an ancient fruit. In the Old Testament and the Koran, citron was supposed to be the fruit of knowledge that Adam ate. Remnants of dried citron have been found by archaeologists in Egyptian pyramids. Citron is thought to have originated in China and is currently grown in Asia and the Middle East. It is a large citrus and usually weighs between one and eight pounds. The citron is a durable fruit and is used more for its ‘toughness' than its juiciness. The citron stands up well to being preserved in salt or sugar and is often crystallized or candied. It is also used for an edible decoration and as a room sachet.

OTHER EXOTIC FRUITS

Mangos and papayas may frequent your home so often that you take them for granted, but hopefully not. Although grown in many tropical countries, mangos and papayas are thought to have originated in Asian countries and have certainly been incorporated into Asian cuisine.

Mangos are available fresh, frozen, in concentrate, and as a frozen or canned juice. Ripe, fresh mangos are wonderful sliced and served as a refreshing dessert or as part of a seasonal fruit salad or potato salad. They are delicious as a frozen soy ice cream or sorbet topping, and the fruit itself can be made into ice cream. Mangos are also easily incorporated into baked fruit tarts, scones, and muffins. If you find yourself with overripe or frozen mangos, use them in smoothies or purée into a sauce for fruit salad. Underripe or green mangos may be shredded and incorporated into pasta, rice, and tofu salads or used as a 'vegetable' in curries and stir-fries.

Papaya is also available fresh and frozen. You are probably familiar with this pear-shaped, yellow-orange fruit with a million seeds and the peachy-strawberry flavor. Add chopped papaya to mixed green salads or tofu salad. Ripe papaya is an excellent dessert simply halved and filled with a scoop of sorbet or fresh berries. This fruit is a colorful way to top sorbet sundaes and makes an excellent ingredient in custards. Overripe or frozen papaya can be used in sauces and in fruit shakes.

Starfruit, also called carambola, looks like a bright yellow, three-dimensional, five-pointed star. Available fresh and dried, its tangy sweet flavor, firm flesh, and engaging shape make it perfect to garnish everything!

Although kumquats resemble miniature oval oranges, botanists have decided that this fruit isn't a citrus but belongs to its own genus. Kumquats are available fresh and canned, usually in heavy syrup. The skin is sweet, and the pulp is tart, so patrons get both a sweet and sour taste in one bite. Kumquats can be used in sauces, in salads, on desserts, or in place of lemon slices. Or if you crave the truly exotic, look for limequats, a natural cross of limes and kumquats.

Lychees are available fresh, frozen, and canned, but the canned are more practical for food service applications. Fresh lychees are very seasonal, and they have skins that resemble red porcupines and seeds that take up approximately half of the fruit. Look for fresh lychees in the spring and summer, especially in Asian markets. The payoff is that fresh lychees are the roses of the fruit world, highly aromatic with a luscious flavor.

If you've missed this year's fresh crop, purchase canned lychees, which are already peeled and seeded. Juicy and smooth, canned lychees retain a great deal of their flavor. Mix them with tart fruit, such as grapefruit sections, or serve with frozen desserts. Dried lychees are chewy and sweet and make a great snack.

Citrus Fruits and More

Here's a guide to the more edgy citrus fruits currently on the market, along with other interesting produce that can be used like citrus.